what a @#$@$% day...UPDATE!!!

mandm177 · Post by **mandm177** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:42 pm

1: weather was F'in GREAT! then it had to rain

2: took out my axles and disconnected my driveshaft to install my LSD pumpkin....but it looks like someone welded a bit of the third member to the axle housing, so i cant GET IT OFF!!!!! so i put everything back together and...

3: drive home to my apt from my parent's house where i do my car work. im about 10 min away, and my car dies on the highway! call my mechanic friend, i got spark, fuel, and air but it wont start up. While cranking we hear a knocking sound coming from somewhere, but cant figure out where its coming from. Pay $100 to have it towed back to my parent's house.

4: continues to rain...

im really hoping its nothing major internally, but deep down inside, i think it is...

/rant

mooreofit · Post by **mooreofit** » Sat Oct 03, 2009 11:54 pm

i really am sorry to hear that! i know how it feels to loose a motor or three or four.

did you loose power before it died?if it was the bearings you would feel a power loss 5 mins or so before it went. also did you make sure the afm was fully tight? the only sensors on the rolla that would make the car not run are the afm and the cam\crank position sensors inside the distributor.

HondaRue · Post by **HondaRue** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:24 am

Sorry to hear... I was in Garland today too. I would have been willing to help. Let me know next time you are planning to work on the rear end if you want help with it.

mandm177 · Post by **mandm177** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:43 am

mooreofit: its a 20v BT, so no AFM. only MAP.

aaron: man, you travel all over north texas, dont you? i think my main priority right now is to get the car running again...i might end up selling my axles and pumpkin to cover the costs though...

mooreofit · Post by **mooreofit** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:55 am

one day ill commit that to memory

sorry to hear about the knock. but like i was saying you will feel a power loss when you spin a bearing or have rod knock a couple minutes before it will just no longer run.

Jorsh · Post by **Jorsh** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:07 am

wow, that sucks man... I was hoping the 20V's would be new enough to be much less likely of this sort of thing.

mexellent · Post by **mexellent** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:51 am

That sucks. Ive been very lucky with my engine I kind of take it for granted.

Are you sure someone welded the third member to the axle housing? Do you have a picture? I find that really hard to believe.

mooreofmick · Post by **mooreofmick** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 1:27 pm

i agree that hard to think some one would do that especally when there are like 12 nut holding the thing on. i remember when i took my rear end apart it was hard to break the seal but a 3lb sledge and a punch took care of it

MadeInThe80s · Post by **MadeInThe80s** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 3:43 pm

I wondered if anything was going to rear its head after that trouble you had the other day with it. Hope its just something simple.

mandm177 · Post by **mandm177** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:40 pm

MadeInThe80s wrote:I wondered if anything was going to rear its head after that trouble you had the other day with it. Hope its just something simple.

i wouldnt be surprised...ah well. i had a day to let it soak in, now i gotta weigh in my options...decisions, decisions...

btw, looks like you got the rims. they look goood on your car, but i guess im biased. hahaaha

i was surprised about the rear end when i first saw it, so i had to call in a second opinion. there's about a 2-3 inch bead on the top, and no amount of picking at it with a flathead would remove it. its a moot point now cause the car wont run, but it was surprising.

if anyone sees a cheap 20v bottom end, let me know!

mexellent · Post by **mexellent** » Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:59 pm

If you want help taking off that weld let me know. Although I cant for the life of me imagine what would posses someone to weld the third member to the axle housing. It makes no sense at all.

What happened to your bottom end?

Post by **dr.occa** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 7:15 am

mr. mito. hit up uniquetrueno for the zenki gts rear end (SA i do believe) if he still has it. you can then see someone with a torch to try and cut the third member out of your rear body while avoiding hitting the diff assembly. you should then be able to use it in the one from unique.

just an idea unless you already have another rear end lined up.

yeah, whoever welded in the 3rd member must have thought it would solve their leaking diff fluid issues...PERMANENTLY. unfortunately, they were a little short sighted in not being able to see that EVENTUALLY the diff would need to be serviced or replaced.

are you sure your bottom end is toast? have you pulled the plug on the oil pan to see if you've got noticeable metal shavings? you may have to pull the pan itself to examine.

mexellent · Post by **mexellent** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 1:24 pm

dr.occa wrote: yeah, whoever welded in the 3rd member must have thought it would solve their leaking diff fluid issues...PERMANENTLY. unfortunately, they were a little short sighted in not being able to see that EVENTUALLY the diff would need to be serviced or replaced.

Whats weird is he said the weld is at the top.

Post by **dr.occa** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:40 pm

mexellent wrote:
dr.occa wrote: yeah, whoever welded in the 3rd member must have thought it would solve their leaking diff fluid issues...PERMANENTLY. unfortunately, they were a little short sighted in not being able to see that EVENTUALLY the diff would need to be serviced or replaced.
Whats weird is he said the weld is at the top.

then i misunderstood.

mooreofmick · Post by **mooreofmick** » Mon Oct 05, 2009 6:44 pm

that sucks but if i were u id take the rearend out completely and then take a cut off wheel or a grinding wheel and take off the weld then you should be able to split the third member from the housing