www.86garage.com

What experiences, if any, has anyone had with the Pacesetter header? The reason I ask is that they are HUGELY popular in the LSx community and have no problems whatsoever.

What other options are available to us?

OBX-R work great!! and cheap

they're TRD copies

pacesetters are big in the gtp world too. i went with a set of ssac's on my monte and fit just fine. then i ordered a turbo header for my 86... huge headache! but they did make it right. took forever though.

i bought one of those a pacesetter header for my car and it did fit fine.... But i have not used it a lot but looks good to me....

SDPC moves a LOT of Pacesetter headers and getting one for the 86 here would not be an issue for me. I looked at the OBX header (TRD copy) and while the design is certainly appealing to me, I am admittedly nervous about their quality. Moreover, OBX screams "eBay". Although Pacesetter is not JDM, it is the genuine article.

i beat the living hell out of my OBX and have had all sorts of fluid on them

they've held up nice for the last 3.5 years since i've owned them and i got them used

also, my dizzy seal makes sure to pee oil on them all the time ha ha

just my .01 can't afford the other cent right now :D

A recurring comment I see on the OBX is that the primaries are too big for a regular street driven car, but are better suited for high-revving.

not too sure on the technical side but i drive mine daily and when i drift it's always revving high

never tried pacesetter though

+1 for OBX. they are the only (i think) company to make a RWD header that fits the 20v. Instead of taking a TRD and notching the header flange, or chopping it up completely, i went with the OBX (that i bought off of ebay) and its worked perfectly for the past 2 years for me.

If you can weld Pacesetter are ok, if not go with something else. I have to weld cracks in mine a few times within a years worth of abuse.

obx is what i got! and i love it! and it's shiny! (for now...)

I have the pacesetter 4-2-1 with their Armor coating and love it. It reduced the radiant engine temps by 200 degrees over the oem cast manifold. Only problem i had was not being able to use the hanger bracket that attaches the cat to the body $5 fix from autozone. Engine is very stock inside and out great fitment currently building a short ram intake and new exhaust so more impressions and hopefully some numbers will be added later. I dont daily the car but there would be little issue if you stick with the Armor coated version as this will drastically slow/stop rusting at the welds. Good luck with whatever you choose.

-David

It seems that the OEM manifold setup and the Pacesetter are VERY similar in design. Aside from the weight reduction, it begs the question whether there are actual performance gains to be had over stock. Nevertheless, if we were to go with the Pacesetter header it would be the painted version. We would then have it media blasted and then take it to a professional welder to refine the welds on it. then we would take to have them armor coated, or just wrap them with run-of-the-mill exhaust wrap for the grassroots look.

After some thought, I feel the the cracking most people probably experience is the result of one, or a combination, of the following:

- there is no hanger/support at the b-pipe
- faulty or failing motor/tranny mounts that allow the engine to flex and twist more than intended
- insufficient ground clearance resulting in abnormal and excessive pressure at the flange welds as the exhaust makes contact with the ground

Just some food for thought.

I believe they are very close in design but the OEM manifold has a section where the two separte exhaust gases meet and create more turbulance where the O2 sensor bolts in. This mixing so close to the valve is not the best when looking for better exhaust flow. Keeping the gases separate for just the right amount of time is key weather or not the Pace-Setter design does this has not been proven.

I have been looking into testing the different designs on a dyno but not in the near future. I have searched the internet/forums, etc. but have come up empty handed with any true side by side data on 4-2-1 vs 4-1 on any setup. One of the more prepared corrola's built for autocross had their engine completly modeled from start to finish and ended with the TRD 4-1 design. The engine they built shares more parts in common with the N-2/Formula Atlantic motors and 14:1 compression. So if anyone has side by side imperical data please share it with us.

I do see your note on the posible causes of cracking and agree that these are major contributors. I solved the hanger problem with a bolt-on pipe hanger from autozone will get pics up afterwhile this reduced the stress on the manifold. I actually bottomed out and had the slip-on portion disconnect and that is what prompted that solution.

I would like to see an anti-reversion style manifold similar to the HY-Tech made for hondas for the 16v 4age this design has proven gain's up to 5% on 100 HP motors over the traditional designs IE 4-2-1 and 4-1. It is hard to sell true performance parts to most markets as the cost/benefit/sale's always outway overal performace. Thus why true performance parts cost a percieved "arm and leg" negating their true potential.

Re-working the Pace-setter's welds is a great idea but at that point there're more cost effective solution's from over seas or on Club4AG with some of the custom builders. With out a thermal coating on the manifold all that extra effort would come undone albiet further down the line than usual.

That was some tasty thought! I over did this one.

-David

Is there an index of what all headers are available for the eight-six? The only available headers that we are aware of are the OBX, Pacesetter and TRD headers.