www.86garage.com

I had originally planned on going N/A with ITB's and raising the redline up to around say 9-10k. (Always been something I wanted to try and do) Now I've decided to go completely turbo and from what I understand raising the redline on a turbo car is pointless. So here's the question of the day. Is it worth the time/money to get these installed or should I just sell/trade them for something else that would help me out on my build?

The only pointless thing about raising the redline is if you don't benefit from it.

For example:
You get a baseline dyno of your car with new cams and springs up to your current redline. Let's say it's 7500RPMs. Given they are mildly aggressive and the head slightly ported. If your car peaks at 7200RPMs, there's no need to raise the redline.

There are other limiting factors inclusive to limiting the redline. But I won't get into that since this is about the engine redline. As far as your titanium springs are concerned, nobody makes them because of their tendency to shatter. :D

Glad I spent 600 clams on some then.

sorry 'bout the 600 clams c4ptiv3 .

hks, toda or trd are good tried and true valve spring sets for any 4ag build. and +1 with what Force_Fed stated about the redline.

there are other areas of more concern regarding 9-10k spin ups on the na 4age's but that can be for another thread.

Nobody caught my smartie remark. Lol!

You meant to say dual valve spring and titanium retainers. A titanium spring wouldn't be too functional. Titanium shatters under high pressure, therefore making a horrible spring.

You guys need to pay attention more closely.

There are many many variables in the max power formula. A turbo is a good variable to have. Now what you need to do is ask yourself, "What is this engines purpose? Where do I want to make power?"

The dual springs and titanium retainers is a good start to minimize on valve float. Just be careful with the force spring you choose. Too stiff of a rate in combination with older OEM valves and SNAP goes a valve or a few... I would say get a baseline dyno first. By doing this you can analyze what needs to be done and where you lack power / non-linear transitions etc. Once you do that, post it up. We'll be more than glad to help you make a solid decision of what really needs to be done next.

Force_Fed wrote:There are many many variables in the max power formula. A turbo is a good variable to have. Now what you need to do is ask yourself, "What is this engines purpose? Where do I want to make power?"

The dual springs and titanium retainers is a good start to minimize on valve float. Just be careful with the force spring you choose. Too stiff of a rate in combination with older OEM valves and SNAP goes a valve or a few... I would say get a baseline dyno first. By doing this you can analyze what needs to be done and where you lack power / non-linear transitions etc. Once you do that, post it up. We'll be more than glad to help you make a solid decision of what really needs to be done next.

very interesting. I picked up some brand new topline valves and supertech dual valve springs about a year back for 800 bucks. It'll be awhile before she get's a baseline. was just trying to get all the machining done in the coming weeks before I started putting it back together. Thanks for all the info. I'm sure I'll have loads more questions as this build continues.

I'll e posting my build as it goes along too. I'll be boosting a 16V as well.

Force_Fed wrote:Nobody caught my smartie remark. Lol!

You meant to say dual valve spring and titanium retainers. A titanium spring wouldn't be too functional. Titanium shatters under high pressure, therefore making a horrible spring.

You guys need to pay attention more closely.

see, sometimes speed reading doesn't come in handy...