www.86garage.com

What is the clearances supposed to be between the shim bucket and the cam?

The specs I found were
COLD: Intake 0.006-0.010" Exhaust 0.008-0.012"


are these correct? If so the machine shop def. screwed up... and lets say I'm not very happy.

Those are correct.

You checked valve clearance as per the service manual method just to be doubley sure? i.e. set crank pulley mark to "0" and No.1 valve lifters are loose while no.4 lifters are tight, etc...?

check:
no.1 in/ex
no.2 in
no.3 ex

Rotate full 360°
check:
no.4 in/ex
no.3 in
no.2 ex

?

I did, but I will go double check again just to make sure.

COLD engine here are the read outs and following the procedure. valve 1 is closest to the front of the engine as well.

cylinder 1
valve 1
intake - 0.009
exhaust - 0.013
valve 2
intake - 0.009
exhaust - 0.013

cylinder 2
valve 1
intake - 0.010
exhaust - 0.013
valve 2
intake - 0.010
exhaust - 0.013

cylinder 3
valve 1
intake - 0.013
exhaust - 0.013
valve 2
intake - 0.011
exhaust - 0.012

cylinder 4
valve 1
intake - 0.009
exhaust - 0.013
valve 2
intake - 0.009
exhaust 0.012

1, 2 & 4 intakes are near max allowed. <---still too much in my opinion
3 just out right sucks!
ALL OF YOUR EXHAUST Valves are lame! I know .012" is still within spec but that's like a 70 which is one point shy of failing!

Ugh! Those guys should refund you something which should offset your cost some for new shims.

How much are shims?

I've got a suggestion: let's start our own shim bank similar to what MR2OC had done in the past. Theirs is currently inactive but maybe we can try.

New thread coming up.

Hey dr. Occa. Any chance of a phone call? Lol

This guy down here claims he sets everything on the loose side because they tighten up over time? How does that make sense? Shit wears out not gain. He said he would redo the 2 intakes that are over, but leaving the rest. I seriously spent an hour and a half over this. That a-hole must be damn proud of his work because he accused me of pinging the valves off the pistons. I immediately asked him HOW? The engine timing crank heads is DEAD ON nothing slipped/skipped a tooth. And explain to me how only did those 2 intakes if it happened?! Ya frustration. Pulling the cam to get those 2 buckets out. Seems a little too loose in my opinion.

The valves wouldn't even touch the pistons because it's a non-interference engine. Even if your timing were way off or the belt snapped, it's non-interference period. Honda's will smack valves on pistons because they ARE interference but not the 4AG(Z)E. Not even the 20Vs are interference.

You're dead on, they don't gain girth even under heat, they won't gain that much! LOL! Don't go with home made shims. That's just retarded plain and simple...that's not what you're paying for! There's a tool to remove the shims without having to pull the cams. It's a great piece to have handy.

Here's what I'm talking about:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shim-over-Bucke ... 256cb8a131" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

what he told me today that I forgot to add was they have a machine that lets them take a little off the shims to make them tighter. idk if you read my build thread yet or not.. but it explains a little more in there. To shorten it down he won't go through all of them again to put them in spec.. only the 2 that seemed to far out to him. He builds "race" engines mainly 350 v8's and even admitted to having to guess on some stuff.

yes that would be hellaciously handy right now... I had to take the damn timing belt BACK off to get the cams out.... just to remove those damn buckets/shims.

question since we are on this topic. Is there a difference in size/diameter/depth of the 4agze to the 4age 16 valve?

16v valves both GE & GZE are the same.

werd! so I technically have 2 heads currently. 1 that still part of an engine and a spare 16v head just laying around. I might have to rob parts out of it, and redo the valves my damn self. No point in wasting more time at that f-bombed up shop. Bad thing is.... i know quite a few people that know quite a few people around here. Time to let my friends know wtf happened and what they won't do... they'll lose some business for sure.

Whether it's a domestic engine or an import engine, it shouldn't matter. Both should be treated properly and with equal care. Biases shouldn't come into play when servicing customers' engines. They should be given the same respect and care primarily because they belong to someone else who is entrusting their expensive component to said shop.

I would like to think that this guy would listen to reason. i know ive been bummed out many times when relying on someone else to do any sort of work on my cars over the years. ive lost thousands on shit ass mechanics/machinists... that is also why i end up with so many shiny new tools :D you should go in there and tell him whats what, and how he will not only lose you as a customer, but everyone else you know as well... reputation is a bitch to get back after its lost...

LOL!!!!! "Have you seen my staplaah"