www.86garage.com

After LOTS of distractions, I am finally getting around to rebuilding the blue top in the GTS. I have yet to crack it open but has a distinct knock. I am worried what I will find. But as I mentally prepare myself for whatever carnage awaits me underneath its metal skin, there is the question of what my goal for this cult classic? While rebuilding it back to stock would be simple (and easy), I am definitely considering a more baller build--one that gives you a mild chub whenever the hood is popped open, but not so much that you begin humping the car spooging all over yourself (ie. soft core vs. XXX insidiously mind bending hard core).

Prerequisites? Look sick. Sound sick. Doesn't necessarily have to have sick HP though. Don't plan on drifting. Don't plan on drag racing. Don't plan on doing any autocross. Don't want it to be a trailer queen. No turbo. No nitrous. It has to start up and run without any issues. I want to get my shopping list together for the this build and am awaiting your thoughts, input and ideas. For example, ITBs come to mind, but the thought of having to go with custom aftermarket tuning/programming is not particularly appealing to me. I hate custom wiring and rooting out wiring gremlins is the bane of my existence. ITBs sure look good though! Meanwhile, I already have a beautiful set of TRD 4-1 headers.

FYI, I will be posting a separate build thread for this car once I get rolling on it.

If I may make some suggestions for a "factory" rebuild:

-Arrow Rods
-CP Pistons
-ACL Race Series Bearings (matched)
-ARP mains and head studs
-Cometic Head Gasket (factory thickness)
-TRD valve springs
-Shimless/Shim Under buckets
-HKS Timing Belt
-Removal of all extra casting material from head and block
-AE92 oil pump
-Lightened and under/overdrive pulleys
-Accusump (2 quart)
-Adjustable FPR
-Run a smallport head with smallport intake cam and largeport exhaust cam

If you'd like to go ITBs but not have to go standalone, source a map harness and ecu (I have a hi-comp, map ecu from the land of the rising sun)
Or run flat slide, 40mm FCR carbs with programmable ignition or use MSD ignition components.

Jonas, how much of a budget would you need to do all of that?

Why not just go with a Blacktop? Or if you want a rebuild, why not try a 1620 or 7age?

mandm177 wrote:Jonas, how much of a budget would you need to do all of that?

Why not just go with a Blacktop? Or if you want a rebuild, why not try a 1620 or 7age?

While those recommendations sound solid, it doesn't sound awfully cheap for a "factory" rebuild. Meanwhile, I have been reading "Project 86" on http://www.whyturbothat.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; which I have found to be truly interesting (and entertaining).

mandm177 wrote:Jonas, how much of a budget would you need to do all of that?...

-Arrow Rods $1,123.27
-CP Pistons 81.5mm (would come with rings) $545
-ACL Race Series Bearings (matched) ~$140
-ARP mains $106.49
-ARP head studs $139
-Cometic Head Gasket (factory thickness) 82mm bore $101.75
-TRD valve springs (HKS more readily available ->$160)
-Shimless/Shim Under buckets ~$11ea
-HKS Timing Belt ~$170
-Removal of all extra casting material from head and block
-AE92 oil pump ~$85
-Lightened and under/overdrive pulleys ~$340
-Accusump (2 quart) ~$220
-Adjustable FPR ~$130
-Run a smallport head with smallport intake cam and largeport exhaust cam

You're looking at approximately $2746.51 for parts alone.

Or, a person could just get this and call it a day...

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5119" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

GamblerZ wrote:Or, a person could just get this and call it a day...

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=5119" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

They could...

Any other directions?

That's a good buy for whoever picks it up.


Back to op I have a pretty mild set up.

OEM 3rib bottom end I pick up up from Madeinthe80's, the factory cross hatchings were perfect so I just installed new piston rings and called that a day.
Asian oem replacement oil pump.
HKS 1.8mm headgasket
ARP studs
HKS valve springs
TOMEI pon cams 264x8.15 in+ex
Obx 16v exhaust (don't recommend)
The head does have a mild port and polish but that was just cause I knew the machine shop and they gave me a deal since I was getting a valve job with new stem seals.

now I went 48 sidedraft carbs witch is what set me back the most but all my research I did on cams and set ups if you stay EFI it would be around 150-160ish crank with stock ecu on no tune. Find you a decent exhaust and that could be the weekend warroior you are looking for.

you never mentioned anything about superchargers.. could go with a USDM or JDM 4agze... hahahaha only kidding

\/ that is full of win btw...

dr.occa wrote:If I may make some suggestions for a "factory" rebuild:

-Arrow Rods
-CP Pistons
-ACL Race Series Bearings (matched)
-ARP mains and head studs
-Cometic Head Gasket (factory thickness)
-TRD valve springs
-Shimless/Shim Under buckets
-HKS Timing Belt
-Removal of all extra casting material from head and block
-AE92 oil pump
-Lightened and under/overdrive pulleys
-Accusump (2 quart)
-Adjustable FPR
-Run a smallport head with smallport intake cam and largeport exhaust cam

If you'd like to go ITBs but not have to go standalone, source a map harness and ecu (I have a hi-comp, map ecu from the land of the rising sun)
Or run flat slide, 40mm FCR carbs with programmable ignition or use MSD ignition components.

sorry to thread jack, but what does matched mean?

-ACL Race Series Bearings (matched)

Manifesto wrote:sorry to thread jack, but what does matched mean?

-ACL Race Series Bearings (matched)

e.g. Order a few boxes of the rod bearings and take a micrometer to each of the bearings and build a matching complete set where all the bearings are the exact same thickness +/- .01" or .001". Then box up the rest and return them or resell them.

Gambler hit me up via text bro. I did a simple clean rebuild and my car runs pretty hard with the 3.90 gears.