4age 16v with nitrous pros and cons.

[Mexd1_Sicario]

Yoooooooooooo. Whats up everyone its the indecisive mexican speaking. So the mad man Jonas is helping me assemble the little 4age for my Sr5. (still looking for a super celiac dif lol) and it already has the R1 hopefully my buddy Victor will help me get them bad ass cams he has. and now the question is...... NOZ????? what size kit to get???? and what compression pistons do i get ???? i have a separate block that i'm going to be doing this to and it already has arp head bolts rods and good crank. I'm going to be opening it up a bit so i'm going to have to get pistons. just don't know what pistons to get if I'm going to be doing nitrous. So help the undeceive mexican. ideas, comments, and pics will be help full.

thanks everyone in advances.

Manolo G.

[Mexd1_Sicario]

OOOOOOOOOoooooooo and another thing..... w58 to a 4age.... some help with that to... tanks...

[milchmann]

4AGE has a pretty weak crank casing, and nitrous is really hard on motors. I would not do more than 20 if you do not want to blow the motor in the first few months of light use... if you are spending the money to reinforce the block, you might be able to go upwards of 50, but plan on watching the motor carefully and changing rod bearings when it start to get unhappy.
Nitrous cams are a different bread, if your buddy is not running nitrous, the same cams he has are probably not going to work to well on you motor. You probably also want to get the dishes of your pistons coated in thermal barrier.

Results of heavy nitrous use ...

[joel26]

^^^^^^ dang sure did some damage on ur engine there

[milchmann]

None of those were mine thankfully. I have helped setup nitrous cars, but never built one for my self ... I do not make enough money to tear up motors that quickly ...

#1 was a valve stem that warped an was then broken off the stem by the piston.
#2 was non-forged pistons that cracked on a bur or other imperfection.
#3 just shows normal pitting caused by nitrous on uncoated pistons.

[McKenney]

I have YEARS of nitrous experience. As long as you keep it little fat on the fuel side, you'll be ok. make sure you run a good wet kit, and don't go nuts. I've seen a 307 Chevy get mainlined, i.e. no jets, on a NOS ProFogger kit. We were running a Holley Blue as a fuel solenoid. Went thru 8 20lb. bottles in one night at the street races. bt20v can attest to this as well. We've both run Nitrous for years without any real issues. maintenance is key! the right plugs, tune, and setup make all the difference.

now I'm not saying go hit your 3 rib bluetop with a 300 shot... but if you have a 7rib squirter motor!!! and by the way the bluetop cams are the most aggressive stock cam for a 4age. they have a decent LSA and pretty good duration. I'd say start with a 50 shot, then work your way up, adjusting the tune as necessary.

[Mexd1_Sicario]

ok so this is whats up ( and thanks for all your input ) I'm getting some tri flow cams off my friend ( there 260 270, have to look them up later). i do have a 7rib block. good crank and forged rods. arp everything. Yamaha R1 carbs....... NOW what compression do i go with???? and should i get the bigger valves??? and what material do i get them. also!!!!! dry or wet???

[McKenney]

Nitrous likes compression, just make sure you have proper octane fuel and adequate amounts of it. One good "rule of thumb"( should've been rule of wrist;)) with any combustion engine is: the more air you effectively get into and out of a motor, the more power you will make. Hence superchargers, turbochargers, nitrous, etc.

And wet kit definitely if you're going carbs. Make sure your tune is dead on and little rich on the fuel side of the nitrous setup. You'd rather be a little rich than even a little lean with nitrous.

[Mexd1_Sicario]

cool cool cool.... so I'm going to be driving this in the streets so im going to be going with 93oct. what compression should i go with. i good friend of mine said no more then 10:5... and.... what your opinion on the tri flow cams on the 4ag??

[McKenney]

I haven't run the tri-flows... then again I don't have a 4age anymore. I would say no more than 10.5 as well. So basically I'd say redtop bottom end, and either a 20v head or the bigport. Utilize the bigger port with the nitrous. Small port would be restricted if you ask me. Me and Jonas have had this debate over and over again, bigport will flow more air than a smallport...

[Mexd1_Sicario]

then y do ppl say to use a small port instead of a big port for N/A?

[McKenney]

there is some confusion about which will make more power na... I ran a bastard motor, redtop bottom end with all bluetop top end and tvis deleted intake. Mine ran super hard and loved the rpms. I'm from the world of high hp v8s. Bigger port has the ability to move more air period, end of story. I don't care how active a smaller port is, it is restricting the ability to flow the same amount of air.

[Mexd1_Sicario]

yes you do make a point. so i guess ill run the small por on the motor that i have know and then try out the big port later... so this bring me to the next question. with a forged bottom end, and a big-port he'd with oversize valves, cams and r1 carbs. ???its safe to run _________ nitrous????

[McKenney]

start with 50-75 hp shot, to get a feel for it.
make sure to run a full throttle activation switch to guarantee no accidental half throttle all bottle moments.
I'd also recommend a "window switch", this only allows the nitrous to activate during a preset rpm "window".
50-75 shot go 1 step colder on the spark plugs.
100-125 shot 2 steps colder...
and make sure you back the timing off slightly +/- 3 degrees @ full advance.

if it ever stutters on the bottle, turn the nitrous off and start checking plugs, then solenoids, etc.

even forged pistons will only last 3 seconds under hard detonation.

Make sure you have the proper amount of fuel at all times!

[McKenney]

and don't buy cheap shit! buy quality parts for your nitrous setup

NX- Nitrous Xpress- good quality
NOS- Nitrous Oxide Systems- good quality
ZEX- good quality as well