www.86garage.com

would anybody recommend this for a 20v swap?? and if it is where can i get one cheap.. not super cheap just not $700 thats just ridiculous might as well go sr20 less hassle.. i have more faith in doing the sr20det swap than the 20v it looks like more of a headache. i didnt know u have to buy all this nonsense crap i thought it was just drop it in plug n play.. the sr20 with everything is $2400 im talking about everything.. do it myself with a couple of friends.. and Ameen rizvi (previous owner of 786motoring) is willing to do the wiring.. he knows these sr20det's like the back of his hand...

Bang the firewall back or run COPs.

dr.occa wrote:Bang the firewall back or run COPs.

banging the firewall? isnt that ghetto rigging tho?? like half ass?? and is there enough room to remove it if i need to change it?? and im no master mechanic i dont think i can pull off COP by myself and i dont kno anybody personally who has done it..

If you think it's ghetto then it will be for you. It's been done since the beginning in Japan and around the world for over a decade.

As for COPS: There's a thread on how it should be done in this section. It's already tried and true by many in the 86 community (that includes yours truly - moi).

How is relocating the distributor not anymore ghetto? It only looks fancy because of all the shiny expensive "do-dads" to mount it where it doesn't normally go. It's ultimately up to you.

im with jonas. im not going to spend what little money i have on something like that whn a little cut and paste can be done for free. call it what you want but if you beat it in like a hack it will look hack.

I updated my second post to clarify my second sentence.

Well I was just asking u kno...hey Wut about wen u have to change it?? You gotta pull the whole motor out to change the distributor??

I don't think anyone is upset at you for asking. Please don't take it the wrong way. People have made enough room to where you can remove the cap and rotor if you keep it in the factory location.

You don't need a full distributor amount of room. Just room enough to remove the cap and rotor. Then if you actually do need to remove the dist. there's enough room to remove that too with the cap and rotor off.

Anyway, you can skin the cat the way you like that makes it all work.

Oh okay thanks very much that's Wut I really wanted to kno. That's one less thing I gotta worry about now.. now I'm worried about the water relocator... and yea have no idea Wut to do... but I guess that's for another thread..??

i meant no disrespect.

oh no, no, no, non takin guys.. seriously i appreciate any information thanks alot. :various25:

it also pays to run a spacer between the trans and the mount to give some more room at the back of the engine.

I also agree with the thoughts about banging the firewall, just because people have done it before doesn't mean it's not very crude and unproffesional

When I had my blactop in my AE86 I made my own front mount dizzy for it and it worked great. Cost about $30 bucks in parts.

JDM AE86 wrote:When I had my blactop in my AE86 I made my own front mount dizzy for it and it worked great. Cost about $30 bucks in parts.

just out of curiosity i'd love to see a write up on that

CBR_TOY wrote:

JDM AE86 wrote:When I had my blactop in my AE86 I made my own front mount dizzy for it and it worked great. Cost about $30 bucks in parts.

just out of curiosity i'd love to see a write up on that

Hmm its been awhile. I did post it back in the day on c4ag. I basically added a locking washer so the cam gear bolt wouldnt back out. Then had a 14mm socket to fit the head of the bolt. I took apart the dizzy and cut the shaft and case down as short as possible. Found a seal to fit in the end of it. Then cut the shaft at the end to make a square to fit in the socket. Then made the bracket to fit where it sat. Worked great. I also seen guys in Japan just make a bracket and have to dizzy on side of the engine with 1 to 1 pulleys and a belt.