Trying to get my 20v running....

[STLove]

so it has an intake manifold that covers the ITBs?

does it have an AFM flap like the 16v does? if its stuck closed, doesnt that affect how the engine runs?

yes it has a surge tank and AFM flap but the flap is functioning correctly

[mooreofit]

there is more vacuum leaks you just gotta find them. you also might want to try adjusting the throttle stop screw now that it will maintain idle.


also you dizzy might be off and your timing too far retarded causing a low idle. advance the dizzy!

[85levin]

like alan said, more than likely you have a problem with your afm. out of the 5 or 7 pins your afm has(probably 5 like 16v don't remember st 20v) 3 of them are for the actual potentiometer on the afm flap. with your key on, back probe the connector(don't poke the wire), using a voltmeter; make sure you have ground on one pin, close to zero volts on another and 5v on the last. if you do, keep the volt meter on the zero volts pin and slowly push the flap with the back of a screw driver, your voltmeter readings should slowly rise untill you reach 5v when fully open. post your findings, if one of the pins reads differently also post. this will help alan and i figure out what to do next. i will try and find the pin outs for the afm. MAKE SURE you don't have any open air ducts or loose clamps after the afm.

[85levin]

found it.
http://www.club4ag.com/technical_main.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

\you should see 7 wires coming out of your afm. the ones you want to worry aboout are VC,VS and E22. where; E22 should be ground, VC 5v and VS close to zero. if you don't know which pins these are, look them up on your ecu pin out diagram and trace the color back to the afm. continuity test would be ideal with your ecu disconnected just incase wire colors were mixed.

[85levin]

those damn links never work. go to 4A-GE ECU Pin Out Identification
20V Silver Head (1992-95) click on it. then click on the second wiring diagram, that will show you the afm diagram

[STLove]

ok ill try and trace the wires after work tonight.... if not I am taking tomorrow off get my registration and other stuff done...

Super thanks for the help!

[dr.occa]

doubling on alan's suggestion, make sure your timing is dialed in right at the dizzy. you'll most likely have to jumper the diag. connector for the adjustment.

the hard part is finding and working out all the bugs.

[STLove]

SO.... the Moores came over and we are thinking its a vacuum leak somewhere... so I am taking measures to try and seal everything up....

Ill keep u guys updated in a couple of days!

once again thanks for all the info!!

[mooreofmick]

your making it sound like a bad thing that we came over

[STLove]

Not at all! I love it when you guys heckle my hachi!!

haha no but really you guys have been a huge help no doubt!

[STLove]

oh and BTW I slathered a whole tube of JB weld on the surge tank and I will do another coat tonight.... or when its dry... which ever comes first...

Also, got a new coupler for the intake, a new fuel forward filter, and started zip tying the vacuum lines :D

[mooreofit]

we will be over with a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum gauge my next day off.



THE PROBLEM:

the car has a funky issue where you start opening the throttle slowly the rpms wont rise abd the car misfires. if i pinch of the return line and give it full pump pressure the problem disappears.if you snap the throttle it revs just fine. also if i pinch of the booster line i can feel the vacuum pulsating.

i dint see 85levin post till now so next time im over i will check the afm. it did however move freely.we tested the tps and was fine. we searched for vacuum leaks and i just dint see any other leaks. i'm not familiar with 20v vacuum diagrams so i dont know what side is actuator or source unless i trace them but i cant tell if it was supposed to go there or not.

either way its either the afm or a vacuum leak. and hopefully this car will be at the event.

[85levin]

my car's vacuum pulsate's like that too. i think it is normal because of their small vacuum "block" and itbs. i don't think it has to do with the afm now. i had that problem previously and it was low current to the fuel pump(lack of fuel). check fuel pressure while the car revs. if fuel pressure drops, jump 12v direct to the pump. has the fuel filter been replaced?

[dr.occa]

we will be over with a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum gauge my next day off.



THE PROBLEM:

the car has a funky issue where you start opening the throttle slowly the rpms wont rise abd the car misfires. if i pinch of the return line and give it full pump pressure the problem disappears....

sounds like you may have hit on a lead .

fpr may need replacing.

also, as what 85Levin suggested, see if a new filter may be called for to boot.

[mooreofit]

i bi-passed the bay filter, the fuel pump has a direct 12v source with fuze and switch also.