www.86garage.com

well guys im a noobie to these car, all ive ever known is Rotaries..and im trying to build a GTS corolla for drifting and i have a few questions and here they are

is the stock motor better then the 20v?
does the 20v come with vvt?
whats the difference between a silvertop 20v and a blacktop?
what are the best kind of ITB's that i can use?
and if i use ITB's can i still use the stock ecu???

i know thats a lot of questions guys and i have plenty more, but ive been trying to research on the net but its not really helpful at the moment...thank you

you might want to alter the poll answers to 16v itb / 20v itb rather than the yes / no choices.

people like the 20v st/bt (bt has slightly larger itbs) and people who have had a 20v preferred the 16v for better torque response.

personally, for the amount of hp gains, it's porrly spent money. the cash would be better spent setting the 16v up w/ forced induction. more power & better trq and sooner than getting the 20v installed and running in rwd format. better yet, if you're going to go through the hassle spend the money on a GZE setup.

why not just stick w/ the rotary car you're running? most likely longer wheel base, easier to drift, less common in these parts on the drift courses and you already have it.

in short, my vote's for the 16v. cheaper, up & running sooner = more fun before several birthdays go by.

dr.occa wrote:you might want to alter the poll answers to 16v itb / 20v itb rather than the yes / no choices.

people like the 20v st/bt (bt has slightly larger itbs) and people who have had a 20v preferred the 16v for better torque response.

personally, for the amount of hp gains, it's porrly spent money. the cash would be better spent setting the 16v up w/ forced induction. more power & better trq and sooner than getting the 20v installed and running in rwd format. better yet, if you're going to go through the hassle spend the money on a GZE setup.

why not just stick w/ the rotary car you're running? most likely longer wheel base, easier to drift, less common in these parts on the drift courses and you already have it.

in short, my vote's for the 16v. cheaper, up & running sooner = more fun before several birthdays go by.

well i dont have an rx7 anymore..lol....but i do have a corolla, but what kind of itb's can i use to make more power out of the 16v

1. The stock motor is not better than 20v. 20v has better inernal better crankshaft better rods therefore higher redline. If you compare full freshy rebuilt 16v and used low milage 20v I think they are about the same. Please do the math for cost and time that best for you. (^_^)
2. Yes all 20v come with vvt.
3. silver top come off the ae101 blacktop off the ae111. Different internal ae111 has better internal crank rods. And they have different size ITB.
4. The best ITB will be ae101 due to the cost of it. (There are a lot more nice ITB but it cost thousands dollar)
5. Yes the stock ecu culd make it run (poorly) The map ecu would be another choice (if you can get that thing cheap) The aftermarket ECU would recommend "Megasquit"

Spartan7 wrote:well guys im a noobie to these car, all ive ever known is Rotaries..and im trying to build a GTS corolla for drifting and i have a few questions and here they are

is the stock motor better then the 20v?
does the 20v come with vvt?
whats the difference between a silvertop 20v and a blacktop?
what are the best kind of ITB's that i can use?
and if i use ITB's can i still use the stock ecu???

i know thats a lot of questions guys and i have plenty more, but ive been trying to research on the net but its not really helpful at the moment...thank you

pecx wrote:1. The stock motor is not better than 20v. 20v has better inernal better crankshaft better rods therefore higher redline. If you compare full freshy rebuilt 16v and used low milage 20v I think they are about the same. Please do the math for cost and time that best for you. (^_^)
2. Yes all 20v come with vvt.
3. silver top come off the ae101 blacktop off the ae111. Different internal ae111 has better internal crank rods. And they have different size ITB.
4. The best ITB will be ae101 due to the cost of it. (There are a lot more nice ITB but it cost thousands dollar)
5. Yes the stock ecu culd make it run (poorly) The map ecu would be another choice (if you can get that thing cheap) The aftermarket ECU would recommend "Megasquit"

Spartan7 wrote:well guys im a noobie to these car, all ive ever known is Rotaries..and im trying to build a GTS corolla for drifting and i have a few questions and here they are

is the stock motor better then the 20v?
does the 20v come with vvt?
whats the difference between a silvertop 20v and a blacktop?
what are the best kind of ITB's that i can use?
and if i use ITB's can i still use the stock ecu???

i know thats a lot of questions guys and i have plenty more, but ive been trying to research on the net but its not really helpful at the moment...thank you

kewl , thats what i want to hear....alright bro

both 20v run higher compression as well. If I'm not mistaken I believe the blacktop 20v has the highest compression out of them all, lightest internals, bigger itb's, etc. Blacktop 20v equals the best. Another difference between the bt 20v and st 20v is that the bt gets most of it's compression from the pistons where as the st 20v gets most of it's compression from the head. For issues of money I will be getting a small port 16v head building that, port and polish and rebuild the rest of the motor. Cheapest way to go to gain power. Or you could get a st20v from gspeed corp for 300 something right now.

bt has 11:1 where as the st has 10.5:1 and other misc. differences....

i don't know if hearing what you want is really a truthful answer to real needs/goals.

if you want 20v then just go 20v. all the D1 guys who are running 4AG's are 16v either N/A or force induction. if there are any 20v pro drivers, they're few and far between. the attraction is just surface and to know it's a 20v in the engine bay. it's not practical financially because of after market support performance wise. very limited. it's not exactly like the 16v so not everything is interchangeable between the 2. if you want to explore the 20v's potential and go where no man has gone before then go for it and expect to spend and lose money and sleep to surpass what the japanese tuners have already done. it may pay off in the end. of all the footage i've seen w/ 20v vs. 16v comparisons w/ and w/o itbs the hi-comp w/ black top itbs and i believe a complete black top bottom end (that's right, black top block, rods, crank and pistons under a 16v head!) rocked almost all of them! it was fast and had torque.

i'm running a somewhat similar setup: dual sidedraughts, 16v head on a compete st block. it's nice

Yoshioka runs a BT 20v with nitrous pushing 300 the the wheels (with the nitrous of course). Windowed nitrous setup so it only injects when he hits 4500 rpm. W/o nitrous I think his 20v makes around 200hp to the wheels. Awesome setup, I plan on running the same some day. For now I'll do 7rib block small port head etc. the simple and cheap stuff.

I absolutly love the sound of a 20V and its power band. I think its worth having.


Its a good upgrade for SR5 guys.