How-To--> AE86 1.6L 4AC Port Match and Flow
Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 5:07 pm
Disclaimer: While I was porting and matching my head in intake, I was doing it solely by the seat of my pants, so if this is not right, I dont know what is.
Engine used: Toyota 4AC 1.6L with weber 32/36 carb
Tools Needed:
8mm die
die handle
drill
air die grinder
cutoff wheel
carbide grinding bit
small wire wheel
LED flashlight
WD40
air gun
NEW intake and exhaust gasket--\
new valve seals------------------> These can be bought on ebay
new head gasket----------------/
valve spring compressor "can be rented at any advance auto parts store"
Note:
NEVER remove the cam, or the distributor.:happy0034
After removing the rocker arms, valves, and cleaning all the oil from the head, start by examining the intake and exhaust ports with your flashlight.
You might notice some things that are rough, or are sticking out. Some parts in the intake are ment to be there, others are casting errors that need to be fixed. The only things that should never be touched, is the weird vane located around the valve shaft in the intake ports, and NEVER scar any gasket surfaces.
Step one- Look at the ring that the old intake or exhaust gasket made. This is your reference line. NEVER touch it with the bit or go past the inside of the line. Take your bit and grind out to the line, be sure to make it clean and even. Repeat this step for the intake and exhaust.
If you are having problems seeing the line, put the old gasket up there and the idea is to make the head even with the gasket, which is bigger than the intake, so this slows down the air.
Step two- Grab the intake mani and crank it down in a vice WITH A TOWL, so you dont scar it up.
Pretty same thing as step one, grind out to the line. BUT DONT GO FURTHER!
Step three- flip the head to that the combustion chamber is facing up and the intake is toward you, look into the port with the flashlight facing in the valve port and notice THERE IS A BIG LIP right below the valve seat.
Grind this down to where it matches the rest of the port, be careful to not touch the valve seat or you will need a new head.
Blow off the head, and wash it down with a pressure washer or at the carwash. Immediately following this step, cover it in WD40 to keep things from rusting.
Put the head back on the bench and put your new valve seals in. Before putting the valves back in, cover their seats in oil... some synthetic like amsoil 10-40. After putting the valves in the head, grab a drill and chuck the back of the valve in the drill. pull on the valve with the drill while spinning it for about 15 or so seconds. This re-seats the valve in case you got it in the wrong cylinder. To test, push on the valve face and blow into the port your testing and BE SURE the valve isnt leaking.
If you want to get a little crazier, notice the bolts sticking out of the mani that hold the carb down-grab your cutoff wheel, and 8mm die and thread the rest of the bolt that isnt threaded. Chop them so only the adapter plate fits. Before you cut them, run the die to the bottom of the threads , cut the bolt then remove the die- this fixes the threads that the cutoff wheel messed up.
Now take the intake, put it in your mill.... if you have one, or just take your die grinder with the carbide bit and clean out the LARGE edges that fit the old heater plate. Throw your heater plate away and block off the PCV with a small air filter.
grab the wire wheel and buff off any imperfections.
blow off EVERYTHING and make for damn sure that no aluminum is left in the intake.
replace springs, rocker arms, head gasket, intake/exhaust gasket, and dont forget the gasket between the intake and exhaust for the emissions bs.
Woot, port matched or minor ported. Congrats, ive never dyno'd this, so not sure what it gives you.
Here are the reference pics.
Any questions? Email me- motboy2@msn.com
Engine used: Toyota 4AC 1.6L with weber 32/36 carb
Tools Needed:
8mm die
die handle
drill
air die grinder
cutoff wheel
carbide grinding bit
small wire wheel
LED flashlight
WD40
air gun
NEW intake and exhaust gasket--\
new valve seals------------------> These can be bought on ebay
new head gasket----------------/
valve spring compressor "can be rented at any advance auto parts store"
Note:
NEVER remove the cam, or the distributor.:happy0034
After removing the rocker arms, valves, and cleaning all the oil from the head, start by examining the intake and exhaust ports with your flashlight.
You might notice some things that are rough, or are sticking out. Some parts in the intake are ment to be there, others are casting errors that need to be fixed. The only things that should never be touched, is the weird vane located around the valve shaft in the intake ports, and NEVER scar any gasket surfaces.
Step one- Look at the ring that the old intake or exhaust gasket made. This is your reference line. NEVER touch it with the bit or go past the inside of the line. Take your bit and grind out to the line, be sure to make it clean and even. Repeat this step for the intake and exhaust.
If you are having problems seeing the line, put the old gasket up there and the idea is to make the head even with the gasket, which is bigger than the intake, so this slows down the air.
Step two- Grab the intake mani and crank it down in a vice WITH A TOWL, so you dont scar it up.
Pretty same thing as step one, grind out to the line. BUT DONT GO FURTHER!
Step three- flip the head to that the combustion chamber is facing up and the intake is toward you, look into the port with the flashlight facing in the valve port and notice THERE IS A BIG LIP right below the valve seat.
Grind this down to where it matches the rest of the port, be careful to not touch the valve seat or you will need a new head.
Blow off the head, and wash it down with a pressure washer or at the carwash. Immediately following this step, cover it in WD40 to keep things from rusting.
Put the head back on the bench and put your new valve seals in. Before putting the valves back in, cover their seats in oil... some synthetic like amsoil 10-40. After putting the valves in the head, grab a drill and chuck the back of the valve in the drill. pull on the valve with the drill while spinning it for about 15 or so seconds. This re-seats the valve in case you got it in the wrong cylinder. To test, push on the valve face and blow into the port your testing and BE SURE the valve isnt leaking.
If you want to get a little crazier, notice the bolts sticking out of the mani that hold the carb down-grab your cutoff wheel, and 8mm die and thread the rest of the bolt that isnt threaded. Chop them so only the adapter plate fits. Before you cut them, run the die to the bottom of the threads , cut the bolt then remove the die- this fixes the threads that the cutoff wheel messed up.
Now take the intake, put it in your mill.... if you have one, or just take your die grinder with the carbide bit and clean out the LARGE edges that fit the old heater plate. Throw your heater plate away and block off the PCV with a small air filter.
grab the wire wheel and buff off any imperfections.
blow off EVERYTHING and make for damn sure that no aluminum is left in the intake.
replace springs, rocker arms, head gasket, intake/exhaust gasket, and dont forget the gasket between the intake and exhaust for the emissions bs.
Woot, port matched or minor ported. Congrats, ive never dyno'd this, so not sure what it gives you.
Here are the reference pics.
Any questions? Email me- motboy2@msn.com
