www.86garage.com

whats up. I am having a cooling issue. I never had the clutch fan or the shroud so i cant put them back on. i only have an electric fan on my car and it kept my engine cool even with out a fan shroud. When i changed my motor it wasnt enough to keep it cool. so i made a fan shroud to direct the air through the entire radiator. it still isnt enough tho. i am going to replace my water pump just in case but for reference what CFM rated fan would be best for my stock gts?

ok from what i have found is 1250 for a 4 cylinder. i think im going to try 1500 or 2000 cfm just in case i get stuck in Houston traffic. ill use 2 fans also if needed

ga_goosh wrote:ok from what i have found is 1250 for a 4 cylinder. i think im going to try 1500 or 2000 cfm just in case i get stuck in Houston traffic. ill use 2 fans also if needed

check your thermostat. I could be sticking or just going bad and not opening up enuff to let the cool water in. Pull it and you can light a cig lihgter under it and see if its a smooth opening or not. There cheap so I would just buy a new one and then see what it does.

yea I installed a new one about 2 weeks ago. i originally didnt have one. also i just pulled my water pump and it looks new on the inside. shiny and all. It is an oem toyota water pump. unless it was rebuilt. I wasnt losing any coolant either. maybe a new radiator cap but im not sure if that would make it over heat on the freeway.

sometimes even new thermostats can be bad sometimes (personal experience)

Make sure you bleed your cooling system. Let it idle with the cap off 'til it warms up. After you put the cap back on, open the coolant bleed on the block that should be near the oil pressure sender 'til you have a laminar flow.

dr.occa wrote:Make sure you bleed your cooling system. Let it idle with the cap off 'til it warms up. After you put the cap back on, open the coolant bleed on the block that should be near the oil pressure sender 'til you have a laminar flow.

ahh i didnt know there was a bleeder. ill give that a try thanks Jonas.

ga_goosh wrote:
ahh i didnt know there was a bleeder. ill give that a try thanks Jonas.

You bet. Look at parts 11415 & 11415A. That's the water drain/bleed.

so i am still having a cooling issue. i bled the block of coolan/air bubles like Jonas described (thanks Jonas). it healped but didnt solve it. i went and picked up a new radiator cap. and i noticed it got better but it will get hot on the freeway if i drive 70+ mph or 3750 rpms. i can control it if i go 60mph but i can never get on it or it will heat up. i want it to always work.

could i need a 2nd fan? or a new radiator? maybe my rad isnt big enough or not flowing like it should.

$20 bucks ill give you my 2 core radiator out of the white one. Text or come by if you want it.

JDM AE86 wrote:$20 bucks ill give you my 2 core radiator out of the white one. Text or come by if you want it.

wow that is very generous price. you just got a text




also Iv been reading on looping the heater hose to delete the heater. I will have my heater hooked up soon, but for now its looped until i find some more parts.

Iv seen people say to block it off since it bypasses the radiator and can cause some over heating. iv also seen people say to loop it but they never have a reason other then "thats what every one else does." I have mine looped for now but would/could it help to prevent my over heating problem if i just blocked them off?

I can see the reasoning in both but dont know what is the best route since if you turn off the heat (if its plumbed correctly) it would block both of the hoses.