www.86garage.com

Ok, so my recently purchased 86 coupe came with OE chopped springs and OE shocks with like a 2-2.25" drop.

It handles horribly!

I'm NOT looking for a track ready set up. I just want something relatively confortable but responsive and stiff enough to go for some spirited cannyon drives every once in a while.

Tokyco Bues + regular drop springs like eibach/Megan/Tanabe could probably cut it for in regards to improved handling and confortable ride.

I'm a noob so I don't think I need much more for the moment. Plus the my budget is limited.

There is one problem with this set up. I hate the 4x4 look!!

I don't want to slam the car but at least i would like to close the fender gaps. I think I will need around 2.25" drop to close the gap

... So now it looks like I'm on the short stroke shocks territory...

Tokico HTS and TRD SS are over my budget and needs...

I see the sw20/camaro AGX combo is relatively cheap and offers shock adjustability.
How ever I've read the sw20/ Camaro AGX's can be quite stiff for daily driving situations.

Does any one have experience with this set up?

What springs would be recomended for a 2.25 or close to that drop?

Spring rates that won't break my back on my local terrible roads?

I want to avoid the cutting and welding of coilovers. I've also read that you can use short strokes on regular front struts using a T3 spacer.

Ideas, suggestions?

Other possible set ups?

My budget? $500 - $600

... and yeah new prothane bushings will probably be installed at the same time of the susp upgrade.

Thanks for your comments!!

i've been riding on agx sw20 w/ 450lbs springs in the front and camaro qa1 12way adjustable coilovers in the rear w/ 350lbs springs for 4+years. it's comfortable and adjustable. it could adjust it softer if i wanted to. if you're really all about just comfort, go 350lbs springs front and 300lbs rear. 250lbs rear springs are too soft in my opinion.

I rode on cut springs and there is nothing like the feel of tire hitting fender and that sucks major A**. Well you could go with the set up that was said above , Or.....get megan springs and Tokyco blues and Tanabe anti-sway bars and some spacers and run on 15's as in rim and you should have your self a pretty good set up right there. But that again is a little on the pricy side. But then again you will have a stiffy. LOL and yes I mean stiffy as in car. But the combo I just said should give you the edge on some good canyon runs. OH DONT FORGET SOME GRIPPY TIRES!!! Tires mean ALOT when it comes to suspension.

http://hopupracing.com/esasdsptocog.html

Springs = 186.00

http://hopupracing.com/tafrresustba2.html

Sway bars = 375.00

http://mackinindustries.com/wm/kics/wid ... pacer.html

spacers = call for price..

So far just the sprngs and swaybars your looking at 560.00
And to be honest anyone here will tell you Never go cheap on suspension. But then again dont go and buy expensive stuff lol

dr.occa wrote:i've been riding on agx sw20 w/ 450lbs springs in the front and camaro qa1 12way adjustable coilovers in the rear w/ 350lbs springs for 4+years. it's comfortable and adjustable. it could adjust it softer if i wanted to. if you're really all about just comfort, go 350lbs springs front and 300lbs rear. 250lbs rear springs are too soft in my opinion.

Well that's good to know! The SW20/Camaro AGX sure is the cheapest way to go short stroke.
I was just worried that those shocks could lead to a bone braking ride.

What brand of springs would you recomend? not really interested on a coilover set up as I'm more the kind of person of set it and leave it. So no need for coilovers a nice 2" -2.25" drop would be all I need

Also, would I still need to cut the strut cases or would I get away using just the t3 spacers?

DjSpecter wrote:I rode on cut springs and there is nothing like the feel of tire hitting fender and that sucks major A**. Well you could go with the set up that was said above , Or.....get megan springs and Tokyco blues and Tanabe anti-sway bars and some spacers and run on 15's as in rim and you should have your self a pretty good set up right there. But that again is a little on the pricy side. But then again you will have a stiffy. LOL and yes I mean stiffy as in car. But the combo I just said should give you the edge on some good canyon runs. OH DONT FORGET SOME GRIPPY TIRES!!! Tires mean ALOT when it comes to suspension.

Yeah, the Blues + Megan was at the top of my list. Cheap and functional. Tough I did not concider the sway bars. Those would increase the price and might as well get the AGX's with better springs...

I already have 15's. I have some rewinds, I have't checked the offset but they seem close to 0 as the wheels seem very flushed

And, tires.. I totally hear you! I curretly run azenis rt615 on my Yaris. I know the difference a good tire makes... Once I figure wha i will do in regards to suspension i will be looking for a good set of rubber.

Back on the Tokicos + Megan... what's pushing e away from this is the stance. even with 15's I've seen some pictures of this set up with 185/60/14's and still looks a little high.

BTW this is my cupe. 15 wheels, 195/45 tires
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well then to be honest with you about removing that wheel gap and going lower then 1.5 in the rear and front I would have to say go with the DIY coilover mod. Its great and its hella lot cheaper. Dont be afraid of cutting adn welding. Its simple steps and anyone can do it. cause if your going for 500 to 600 bucks on suspension I would say save up 300 more and get Megan coils but if you cant then buy extra strut casings and buy ebay universal coilovers and DIY.

Here is a GREAT write up on it with no welding. Just cutting.

viewtopic.php?t=1043

CASTREX, the T3 spacers will be fine. the best thing to do is get a set of stock front and rear springs. measure their lengths, then order a set of eibach springs from summit racing approximately 1.5" to 2" shorter than stock.

the best thing to do is measure your factory shocks and compare the difference in body lengths. purchase springs close to that much shorter than factory springs.

make sense?

Yeah that make sence...

Thanks you both for the suggestions!

i ran kyb agx adj all around, got them as a group buy on club4ag for $325 shipped. with ebay lowering springs adj, 4 link, and adj lat bar and it was a a really good ride. the car was very predictable. i miss it.

what year camaro do the kyb agx shocks come from?

mid-late 90's maybe even newer....

Hi Guys,

So finally I'm doing some suspension work today and I have a question as I'm about to hack the front strut cases.

I'm installing a short stroke KYB set up with Plain sport lowering springs.

Maybe I'll go the full coilover route later on.


The springs I will be using for the moment are a set of Tanabe GF's with 1 coil chopped. Already test them and they will provide a nice 2" all around drop. That is as much as I want because of the bad roads down here.


AS susggested every where for the KYB's i will cut 40mm out of the strut case and add a 20mm spacer on the botom.

NOW MY QUESTION:

Does it make any differenrence if the 40mm are chopped above or below the perch(spring base)?


I think if I do the cut below the perch it will be easier when I have it welded back on. But I read some were that the cut has to be done above the perch.

Help!! I already drop the struts in a shop and they are waiting for my instructions.

if you cut below the pirtch you will drop your car 40mm more than expected

if you cut above the pertch then the casing will be shorter but your ride higth wont be changed.

if you arnt sure about where to cut you might want to consider the strut spacers t3 makes

or just buy some cheap ebay coilovers and use those untill you upgrade to some better springs. plus the cheap springs that will come with the coilovers will be pretty close to stock spring rates and it will be like having stock springs that have ride higth adjustment

you'll most likely grind down the welds anyway whether they are below or above the stock perch.

i say above the perch where the collars will most likely also cover over the welded sections. even though the welds will be just as strong if not stronger than the original casing uncut, the collar surrounding the weld give that extra sense of security and will help hide the cut and welded section.

besides, physics is on your side with more of the strut casing in tact and un-tampered with at the bottom thereby leaving any possible weakness up top. it'll be at the base where most of the load will be seen. that's why building foundations are important.

does that make any sense?