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last saturday i lowered the rear of my car a bit more and did my alignment. im gonna do a write up on how to get the most out of the greddy coilovers or any other coilvers when i get the chance... but anyways, i maxed out my rear coilovers and a little more at about 3/4" more then what i already have it at. i took off the upper lock ring just to get that extra 1/4" cause im just that anal. here's the result from this week end.



before


after





and here is my alignment sheet from when i did my alignment... i tried to max my caster and even it out. but i involved having to pull back my caster adjustment. so i just i tightened it to it's max. not even, but i cant really tell much of a difference. but my toe is much better though, was eating through my tires before.

Looks good... looking forward to the write up...

i was told it is a good idea to have have the right front with a little more camber to compensate for the incline on streets. you have more than a whole degree, is it for that same reason?

85levin wrote:i was told it is a good idea to have have the right front with a little more camber to compensate for the incline on streets. you have more than a whole degree, is it for that same reason?

haha... no, it's because that's the most i can get out. see the bad thing about the t3 lower control arm is that even though the advertisement says you can get an extra 2 1/2" over the stock lower control arms, the tension rods wont allow you to because the 2 prongs on the tension rods that connects to the lower controls arms are trying to twist while you are extending the lower control arms. the only other way to get more camber is to get nrca which also takes up a wider radius which in turn makes it easier to hit stuff in your wheel well, you can also cut off the one of the prongs on the end of your tension rod to allow the t3 lower control arms to extend and you get to keep the regular turn radius, or the best thing ive seen... Alex Pfeiffer's battle version lower control arm and tension rod kit that extends without interruption from the tension rod. sorry, i know i got off topic.

nice pics angelo but i believe this aught to go in the tech discussion section. good stuff guys.

i'm sorry, i meant caster, don't know what happened there. lol

then, with that amount of caster difference your car should pull a little left.

i know exactly what you meen, i sloted the bolt holes a little on my lca's, and they were losened when i adjust them. right now i just run some fixed ones i made with prothane bushings. but i do have a set i made with t3 stuff.

i might fab up a set differently though incorporating both designs. i've heard bv's control arms are notorious for exesive play in the heim ball joint.

very nice post Manilla.....

So is that with the nrca's? Or regular rca's?

I took the second lock ring off of mine as well lol and I still want it lower

Jorsh wrote:So is that with the nrca's? Or regular rca's?

this is with the regular center roll adjuster

nt66 wrote:I took the second lock ring off of mine as well lol and I still want it lower

there is another way, you can cut one of the coils off the trd 6kg spring and adjust your greddy shock accordingly... i really should really put this on my write up. i promise i'll try to have something by the end of the month.

Angelo, you are reaaly going to notice that difference in caster when drifting. The car is going to transition way faster to on side. Maxing out out caster is cool but if one side will go further than the other you should go back to where they are equal.