www.86garage.com

The main reason I'm doing this is because people seem to be stingy with information and don't want to help anyone else out these days, or the people that have these diagrams never post them online. So here's a layout for those who would like to see this information to make things a little easier for the 4agze swaps.
I don't go by wire colors as I had to use the 3 ECU plugs from a 99 Corolla. So I state the pin and what they are. For example 1. E02 Intake manifold (Ground) I will break down the "Distributor" later in this document when I talk about the 7mgte ignitor on a 4agze. Also pins that have nothing on them means they are blank not connected to anything. Also discovered the "Rotary Solenoid" is the Idle Air Control Valve located near the Throttle Position Sensor around the initial air intake it should be a gray-ish color and have 3 wires.

Here is the difference between the LATE AE92 and the AE101 ECU pin configurations. As you can see there are some differences. Basically repin the connector. There's a few wires that have the slightly bigger pins, so you'll have to cut and re-solder/heatshrink to move them over or that's what I did at least.





Any questions just ask I'll do my best to answer them regarding back to this. Next on the list!

4AGZE using a 7mgte Ignitor

Ok this is a huge "myth" that only a few people seem to have figured out. I will actually share the info regarding this so it can be easy to find and obtainable for once! after reading and trying to figure all the crap out in the H23 document I think I figured it out. here's the LINK to that h23 document that explains what the ignition system does. Only not for the 4agze using a 7mgte igniter. Seems as if people are confused with the Club4ag diagram, because it is WRONG. Also I know the wire colors for the igniter but not the pins, as I repinned it to my needing on the 4agze.

wire colors and what they do on a 92' 7mgte Igniter

RED - IGT - trigger to Igniter
GRAY - IGF - confirmation from Igniter
WHITE - IGD-A - input from CAS
ORANGE - IGD-B - input from CAS
BROWN - +B - 12v
YELLOW - TAC - Tachometer
BLUE - C1 - output to coil pack 1
BLACK - C2 - output to coil pack 2
GREEN - C3 - output to coil pack 3

So now that this is broken down via IGNITER SIDE wire color.... you don't need a supra wiring harness to follow the diagrams that are out there on the webs. Also the IGd-A and IGd-B will be explained as well after the igniter to harness. Also Make sure you have the correct wires, because there is 3 black wires, and 2 Black with Orange stripe..... that all go do different things.

So what I did via IGNITER to 4AGZE harness

Red - IGt TO IGt - Black
Gray - IGf TO IGf - Black/Yellow
Orange - IGd-B TO IGd - Black/Orange (thinner)
Brown - +B TO +B - Black/Orange (thicker)
Yellow - Tac TO Tac - Black
Blue - C1 TO IG1 - Black/Blue
Black - C2 TO IG2 - Black

Ok so what the biggest confusion with this I seem to have found is what Trigger wires from the 7MGTE igniter to use and what each wire does...

IGt - sends signal from the ecu to the Igniter
IGf - receives signal from igniter for a "confirmation spark"

easiest way to remember these is TO the igniter and FROM the igniter.

IGd is the identification pin. Ecu sends the signal to the igniter (not the same as IGt) to let the igniter know what coil pack to fire based on the inputs from the Cam Angle Sensor. G-, G1, G2, and NE generates that signal from the CAS.
Also if you noticed in the color diagram there is 2 IGd wires IGd-A and IGd-B. This was the part I was lost on and about wired them together to make it a 1 wire IGd just like the 4agze. Then I figured it out.

IGd-A - no spark on C1
IGd-B - no spark on C3

This goes into the trigger wires. C1, C2, C3 are 7MGTE igniter triggers, and G1, G2 are 4AGZE trigger wires. So if you have IGd-A hooked up use C2 and C3, and if you have IGd-B hooked up use C1 and C2

C1 - controls #1 & #6 cylinders
C2 - controls #3 & #4 cylinders
C3 - controls #2 & #5 cylinders

I honestly don't know how people are using C1 and C3 WITHOUT combining the 2 IGd-A and IGd-B wires together igniter side.

Another note everything is ground trigger. So you should have 12v on IG1 and IG2 with everything hooked up. Basically when it "fires" for spark it drops 12v to ground. So if you have a test light/logic probe it should flash on/off/on/off/on/off.

Also again any questions just ask.

Electric fans were kind of tricky with the relay. Now I have never Messed with relays a whole hell of a lot before this. So If you hook these up to the way I did Make sure the thermo switch is one that grounds when it hits the temp range. It's basically open when cold and closes when it hits the temp. This also requires 2 relays.

the first one I got at radio shack it's a SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) 30 AMP 12v relay

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... tId=206247" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The second one I got from an auto parts store from a 1995 Ford F-150 pickup with the 4.9L

Advanced Auto Parts Part No. 15-8271
It's a 5 pin relay

So with the relays picked out you just need to wire them up. Which isn't too bad.

so following this nice picture I drew up on a white board.

layout of the relays

5 pin
30 - 12v constant
87 - N.O. (Normally Open)
87a - N.C. (Normally Closed)
85 - 12v Switched
86 - Ground

4pin
86 - 12v Switched
87 - to Device
85 - Ground
30 - 12v constant

Wiring it up

5 pin FORD relay
86 - thermo switch
30 - 87 on 4 pin
87 -
87a - FAN +
85 - 87 on 4 pin

4 pin RADIOSHACK relay
86 - GROUND
30 - to 30A Fuse then to the Battery +
87 - output to 30 and 85 on 5 pin
85 - switched 12v source

Reserved for additional info and/or possibly the SC relay

maybe help some people out? idk. I just know I couldn't find that info ANYWHERE.... which would have def. been helpful to know a couple months ago.