www.86garage.com

ga_goosh wrote:

hotdoghogie wrote:Haha Exactly. It gets whored out, I traded a Cressida for this fender roller+ $300. haha

you traded a cressi and 300 bux for a fender roller?!? arnt these like $280 new? you must have really needed that thing gone.

That is what I was thinking as well.

hotdoghogie wrote:...traded a Cressida for this fender roller+ $300

why do you hate cressida so much?

I hate Cressidas, I just can't explain it. I had solid everything for it from serial9, JIC coilovers everything it was just waiting a swap. It hit Me one day driving it how shitty it handled. And all the fags on JZXpr*ject ultimately showed me how shitty the cars support was. I parted it out and got a fender roller and the guy added $300 on to for an old worn Cressy that was basically stock. Got more for it the it was worth in weight, I was happy. The less big fat Cressidas at the track to smash my little hachi the happier I am.

Really I know how serious you X-chassis guys can be I'm joking. I don't speak for every owner x owner.

We've got a compadre who pulls no punches here.

I'd like a fender roller myself.

I always wanted one as well. Ended up using a bat. Wonder if anyone wants to partner up on buying one

hotdog you should ship that roller up here for me to use on my 86's and then I'll ship it back! lol I'll pay for shipping even! or at least enough to take some measurements and build one... hahaha

I mean you guys could just whore my fedex account, I get a mad discount. But then again man I end up using a hammer in the end. The roller just don't work hard enough for the thickness of the rollas rear fenders. I might give it another shot, I am trying to stuff some 10's in the ass of this thing.

For the rear fenders I just made an outline with my trusty old Sharpie, took my 4" angle grinder and gradually (so I didn't heat and bubble up the paint) cut the inside lip off then just took sand paper and smoothed the inside down.

Pulling a fender requires a LOT of patience. It should be done in small increments to avoid splitting, chipping or cracking the paint. A heat gun can be your friend. I prefer to do this when the fender has been in the hot sun. The metal and paint tend to be slightly more pliable.

Most of the people I know are just too impatient and only looking for a quick fix for wheel fitment anyway. However, IMO, there is no point to installing baller wheels only to have a fender pull that looks like a**. If a person opts for a pull, take the time to do it correctly, otherwise just cut the fender section as described above and install some fender flares.

/\ that! I bought Thaison's front fenders... and lookin at buying some +30mm rear overfenders from a guy in Utah. no drift=baller status.

Whoops wrong thread.

dr.occa wrote:For the rear fenders I just made an outline with my trusty old Sharpie, took my 4" angle grinder and gradually (so I didn't heat and bubble up the paint) cut the inside lip off then just took sand paper and smoothed the inside down.

gotta be careful cutting that support lip off. I seen something get picked up by a guys tire and bent the living hell out of his fender...

Yeah, you have to make sure it's all cut and smoothed down with some 800/1000 grit. Then I'd apply some weather proof white sealant/caulking. This is on the inside of the fender of course.

trying to find a set of 15 inch watanabes. i want them to look like this on my car.



quite sure the ones in the pic are 15inches.

any idea what width should i be looking at for 86s? all 4 pieces same width?

whats the biggest width i can fit without modifying the fenders or add flares? i prefer the factory look and not to modify the body.