A new build......seriously the stuff of legend

[JDMwhiteboy]

Is it a sr5 or gts water pump pully? I feel like I have run into this before

[c4ptiv3]

I'm really not sure, I just know I've been running these pulleys since I have owned the car. It is possible I have been running FWD pulleys this entire time, however, I did pull out my other pump and the snout is the same length.

Here are some pictures from all the test fittings I did today.


OEM water pump, alternator and crank pulley lined up.





Alternator and NST pulley did not line up.





Here are some shots of the water pump I am using.







OEM crank pulley I've been using.





OEM water pump pulley.







OEM vs NST water pump pulley.







I didn't think to get OEM Crank vs NST Crank, I started getting confused anyway when I started swapping out individual pulleys and looking nothing seemed to want to line up. Help me try to figure out wtf is going on here.

[c4ptiv3]

Found this on the web, looks like I have the correct pump.

[JDMwhiteboy]

The water pumps themselves are the same but the backing plates are different. I think you might have the wrong NST water pump pulley. If I remember correctly the fwd water pump pulley is pushed back like what you have in the pic. Im not sure about the alternator and crank not lining up. If you want it running sooner I'd say just use the oem pulleys. #my2cents

[c4ptiv3]

I'm thinking it's either the crank pulley or the water pump pulley, I'm leaning more towards the crank after reading this post on Club4ag http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=90436" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . I'm thinking I got a 20v crank pulley on accident since the NST WP lines up with the alt but both are off the same amount of the crank.

Who knows, we'll see what Mike want's to do.

I'm still having to come up with money for your Rad, a few more bolts and the wiring done. Lack of funds is what will hinder this thing getting started.

[cdixon311]

ok the alternator pulley doesn't change at all. Use it as your foundation. The crank and water pump have options. Try this for me, find two pulleys that line up, one of which is the alt. I'm guessing alt and water will line up. Test if it works with oem and nst. If those both look good, then your crank is the problem. From what I remember, my crank pulley was weird, and I had to get one from a friend. I dont remember exactly why but I have 2 4a pulleys and a 7a pulley. So if what I'm thinking is correct, nst alt, nst water, and oem crank would work.

[c4ptiv3]

Was finally able to save enough money up to get the proper water pump from Toyota and Mike from NST was kind enough to send me the proper water pump pulley, so here are the results. It now seems to be almost lined up, it's maybe off by a few mm and maybe not enough to even cause a problem. The picture is skewed a bit making it look a bit worse than it actually is, I wouldn't say it's a full tooth off but maybe 1/2 or a bit less than that. I think I can modify a washer and make it line up perfectly.

I also apologize for the size, imgur seems to have gotten rid of the re-sizing option.




As long as the belts line up okay I am now ready to put this thing in the bay and then summon the wiring guru's to help me make a custom harness for the engine and MS. Fun times ahead.

[dr.occa]

Looking good there @c4ptiv3.

I helped you out there on the image with the [imgshrink] option.

[c4ptiv3]

Oh nice, didn't see that option. Thanks Dr.

[c4ptiv3]

Finally got the new pulley on the alternator, unfortunately I have to run with the old one until I can afford a new one. I did clean it up after this picture.



Tore into the dash today to try and replace the heater core, and it looks like RockAuto sent the wrong core or I had the wrong core in there to begin with. The new one was about 1/2" shorter than the old one and the pipes faced the opposite direction, I was able to line the bottom of the casing with cardboard to keep it at the same height (hoping it would work). I put everything back together and now the temperature selector does not function. I will have to take it back apart and see if I can fix it without sending it back.





I got some new bolts and got the remaining pieces on the engine. I'm now lacking a drive belt, pilot bearing, clutch, flywheel and placing the throw-out bearing back in and I can drop the engine. I have all those things but the belt, just need to get this heater core issue tackled before proceeding. Here's a pic of the engine now.



If anyone has any input on the heater core please chime in.

[c4ptiv3]

Finished up the heater-core assembly today. I had to take out the blower motor and the A/C section then the flapper for the heat/cold started working. Not sure why it started working but it did. I got the dash back in but I'm leaving the bottom out until the harness is done.



I had to clean up the bay again since it got destroyed during the polish process at the paint shop, I also got the throw-out bearing installed and ready to go.



I have to go buy some plugs to plug up two of these holes and install the water temp sensor. Engine will get dropped in next weekend, I'm pretty excited.



I'm also looking for new grommets that cover these heater core lines, if anyone has an extra set or knows where I can get some new grommets please let me know. I also could not find a hole in the intake manifold to put the IAT sensor in, I guess I will be forced to weld a bung into the intake pipe. I hope to have some more updates this weekend, stay tuned!

[c4ptiv3]

Picking up a new FPR, adapter and FPR gauge this Friday, once I have these things and some metal fuel lines in place I can drop the engine in and start working on the wiring.

Here's the regulators, adapter and gauge I plan on ordering. http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Turbosm ... 797-1.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Now, does anyone know which fuel line is which coming into the engine bay? I've removed all the lines and not sure which is which (I do know which is the breather line). Any input is greatly appreciated.

[c4ptiv3]

Just ordered the FPR, adapter, gauge, IAT aluminum bung and a tuning cable. Next weekend should be pretty exciting. I'll post pics when all the goodies show up.

[joel26]

it looks great, nice work............................

[c4ptiv3]

Thanks Joel!

Went and picked up some bolts for the distributor, new FPR and the motor mounts, as well as some more paint to finish up the transmission plate and a belt for the WP, Alt and crank. Belt was a bit too big even after measuring, going to have to go back and grab another.

I pushed the car out today to install the bash bar on the rear as well as clean up the exhaust from being painted and fix a crack on the mounting point of the bumper.


Here's a picture of the bash bar.



Here's a shot of the bash bar mounted up.



Here's shot of the exhaust midway through the process, I forgot to take a picture of the before but it was rusted and solid red.



And here's a few after shots, I couldn't locate my Mother's polish so I had to use a light rubbing compound. It's not perfect but it looks great unless you're 5 inches from it. I'll probably touch it up once I find the polish.









And here's bonus shot of my new ST after a fresh wash and wax.






I tried to hook up the new Auto Meter oil pressure gauge I have but none of the supplied fittings are correct. Does anyone know the 7AFE thread pitch for the oil sending unit?