A new build......seriously the stuff of legend

[c4ptiv3]

Worst part is I just changed the oil the day before, huge waste of money.

[c4ptiv3]

Went and got everything pulled off the engine so it's ready to be picked out and taken to the machine shop. I would like to note that Mishomoto's radiator drain design is absolute shit. Instead of the drain pointing straight down it points directly at the engine, so when you pull the plug it sprays your entire engine bay with anti-freeze.

Only thing I've found odd so far is that the intake manifold is filled with oil, I'm going to have to put a catch can or a pcv valve in between the intake and the valve cover. I've even looked in the cylinders through the plug holes and I see nothing amiss, not even any shavings in the oil.

Hopefully I can get it to the machinist this weekend or the following week. Stay tuned my friends.

[c4ptiv3]

I've been looking at this all weekend, I think I'm going to order it today or tomorrow after they answer a few of my questions.

http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/336/4ag ... lenum.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should solve some horsepower issues.

[c4ptiv3]

Got the engine pulled yesterday and I'm going to try and get it to the shop today or this weekend. Hopefully today since it's supposed to rain all weekend.

I did accidentally cross-thread a transmission bolt hole, this made me sad in the pantaloons. Hopefully I'll have more updates over the weekend.

[milchmann]

On the switch issue. I had the same thing happening to mine. It is not the wiring. I switched out connectors, repinned wires, everything trying to fix it. Turns out it is the contacts inside the switch are pulled apart if the weight from the wires justles the switch or is pulling on it at all. I bought 5, yes five switches off of 86garage and club4ag from different people that all had the same problem. I ended up taking one of them apart and using the male plug that is soldered onto the PCB with all of the contact areas, and a 3 pole switch ... so that I could keep the service position. You could probably replace the tension spring that is in there, but I have no idea what the rate should be. I was sick of having to bend over the steering wheel and hold my hand under the dash every time I hit a bump and could not get it to reseat correctly right away, so I opted to do the 3 pole instead of buying packages of 20 different springs/rates and disassembling the switch constantly until I got it right.

This is the switch I used:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ape ... 5Dhw%3d%3d

The only thing I lost was the dimmer, but that could easily be added back with a potentiometer.

If you choose to try and figure out the spring rate, you definitely want to work your way up until it starts to hold consistently ... if you put too stiff of a spring in there you will cause the contacts to scratch through the copper clad on the PCB.

I know you have bigger issues to deal with on the car right now, but let me know if you want pictures of the harness and switch I built ... or even if you want me to build you one.

[dr.occa]

I've been looking at this all weekend, I think I'm going to order it today or tomorrow after they answer a few of my questions.

http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/336/4ag ... lenum.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Should solve some horsepower issues.

Very very nice

[c4ptiv3]

I thought so too, Doc.

Just dropped the engine off at the machine shop, I'll post up what happened when they tell me.

[c4ptiv3]

I saw some blacktop ITB's pop up on the Texas Facebook group and snagged them for 260 shipped. I think I can come out a bit cheaper than buying that intake manifold with a custom throttle body.

So here's the list of what I need to make it fit the 7AGE, please let me know what I'm missing because google isn't my friend right now.

T3 adapter plate to big port
ITB gasket
TPS (Running MS, so any will do. Will a 16v TPS fit?)
Velocity stacks
Filters or screens of some sort
Vacuum box (Will the T3 variant work or do I need something else completely?)
Throttle cable (This is the answer I cannot find, can I use my factory cable or do I need something different?)

Also, where do I mount the IAT sensor now? Somewhere near the middle of the stacks? If anybody has any input I'd appreciate it.

[mandm177]

If it's in the same place as a BT20v, then i believe a stock non-cruise Throttle Cable will work.

If you need a longer cable for whatever reason, I think the throttle cable from a mid 90's tercel will work...it's been a while, so you might want to confirm.

Velocity Stacks:
I have a set of Sam Q stacks that I might be selling...i had these on my blacktop, and they wont fit on the beams with itb's. I need to get a set of shorter ones. Let me know if you're interested.

Filters/Screens:
Morgan has a writeup of DIY Jubiride Screens somewhere.

IAT Sensor:
I think i just left mine dangling somewhere near the middle of the itb's. You can also consult Aaron to see where he mounted his. i think he made a bracket to mount it somewhere.

[c4ptiv3]

If it's in the same place as a BT20v, then i believe a stock non-cruise Throttle Cable will work.

If you need a longer cable for whatever reason, I think the throttle cable from a mid 90's tercel will work...it's been a while, so you might want to confirm.

Velocity Stacks:
I have a set of Sam Q stacks that I might be selling...i had these on my blacktop, and they wont fit on the beams with itb's. I need to get a set of shorter ones. Let me know if you're interested.

Filters/Screens:
Morgan has a writeup of DIY Jubiride Screens somewhere.

IAT Sensor:
I think i just left mine dangling somewhere near the middle of the itb's. You can also consult Aaron to see where he mounted his. i think he made a bracket to mount it somewhere.

Good information, thanks!

Can you send me some pics of the stacks you are selling and give me a price? I'll also hit up Aaron about his IAT solution, maybe I can make me a bracket.


Do you know if the 16v TPS will fit the on the BT ITB's?

[c4ptiv3]

On the switch issue. I had the same thing happening to mine. It is not the wiring. I switched out connectors, repinned wires, everything trying to fix it. Turns out it is the contacts inside the switch are pulled apart if the weight from the wires justles the switch or is pulling on it at all. I bought 5, yes five switches off of 86garage and club4ag from different people that all had the same problem. I ended up taking one of them apart and using the male plug that is soldered onto the PCB with all of the contact areas, and a 3 pole switch ... so that I could keep the service position. You could probably replace the tension spring that is in there, but I have no idea what the rate should be. I was sick of having to bend over the steering wheel and hold my hand under the dash every time I hit a bump and could not get it to reseat correctly right away, so I opted to do the 3 pole instead of buying packages of 20 different springs/rates and disassembling the switch constantly until I got it right.

This is the switch I used:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ape ... 5Dhw%3d%3d

The only thing I lost was the dimmer, but that could easily be added back with a potentiometer.

If you choose to try and figure out the spring rate, you definitely want to work your way up until it starts to hold consistently ... if you put too stiff of a spring in there you will cause the contacts to scratch through the copper clad on the PCB.

I know you have bigger issues to deal with on the car right now, but let me know if you want pictures of the harness and switch I built ... or even if you want me to build you one.

I don't know how I missed this post, but I will have to dig deeper into the switch issue, once it becomes an issue again. I will definitely have to switch it out because this is getting old.

[c4ptiv3]

What do we have here.

[c4ptiv3]

Machine shop found a high amount of sand in the oil, not sure where that came from since the block/head were all cleaned before assembly. My only guess is that there was sand stuck in the oil channels in the block, when I picked it up it was covered in mud and dirt. The head is ruined but he said the HKS valves are still good but the cams will need to be re-polished.

I had a spare head but due to the cost of the machine work I was looking into doing a K20/K24 swap but the cost is just too high, so I found this post on Club4ag http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php ... 76#p120876" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and bought the head since it was considerably cheaper than the machine shop I use locally. It will already have HKS valve springs so I will be able to sell mine if anyone is interested, I will post a for sale ad later.

I'm now hoping that the block, rods, pistons and crank are still salvageable. Once I know for certain from the machine shop I will purchase all the adapter parts I need from T3 to complete the ITB variant of the engine build.

Also, if anyone knows someone that can teach me how to properly degree cams in the DFW area please let me know, I think this is one of the reasons the engine made so little power before and I want to make sure everything is TDC before starting again.

Stay tuned my friends.

[SkabRock5]

hope it works out for you man. really what are the odds of this happening? wow

[c4ptiv3]

hope it works out for you man. really what are the odds of this happening? wow

I know right, it's really odd.

The machine shop got the rest of the block torn apart today, the crank is ruined and one of the MRP H-Beam rods is destroyed. I just ordered a new crank and I'm hoping MRP will sell me one rod.