mooreofit wrote:just joking. i cant do that for liability reasons. its hard to double load with powder but its easy to short or half load on powder with my progressive press. that will cause a squib and you will have a bullet stuck in your barrel and the next shot fired will explode the gun. i had 3 squibs in my first thousand rounds 2 while i was shooting and one while a buddy was shooting.good thing i explained to him what a squib was and he caught it.
I spend about 1.5 to 2 hours last night cleaning out my axle housing of all the metal shavings form the welded diff that was starting to fail. that was fun. haha
I did recieve my driveshaft yesterday as well..... and..... IT FITS!!!! Thanks to McKenney and not sure of the other guys screen name or if he's on here... but THANK YOU SOO DAMN MUCH!!!! I was starting to lose faith in finding a driveshaft. McKenney called me up and let me know there was one on ebay for 100 dollars. bought it and it fits like a glove! Gotta love a good ol' W55 from a late 70s early 80s 2WD pickup. haha
Oh and I've been kinda lazy on taking pictures so I'll try to take a few tonight.
Well I don't think I'll be going to work tomorrow since this cold has gotten worse and I work at a hospital.... only reason in was there all week was because we had 9 million things to do... and my manager asked me if I'd try to do as much and just constantly was my hands and don't sneeze on anything. Finally got 90% of the shit caught up. So well I'm taking tomorrow off. Get a little more rest since my nose is all jacked up and has been keeping me awake. Sooooooo I got the battery charged up tonight. Got my other cas..... tomorrow is going to be cold meds and play time.
Still no pictures as promised.... but bare with me.
I got the axle all back together,got the Tach modified, and tried a few thing on the engine.
Still no spark. I pulled the harness and going through it completely. I'm missing the W (CEL) pin in the diagnostics. Found that while trying to Get my CEL working in the cluster, and yes the light is still good.
I really want this to start. Anyone know the full way to test ignition coil packs and not just the resistance between the power wire and the trigger or the Primary Coil. Not sure how to test the secondary coil or the side that goes to the spark plugs.
from what i remember you check resistance from posative terminal primary to secondary terminal.resistance should be really high but not open.not sure on the specs and i could be wrong.
my guess is the ignitor. im assuming this is all stock 86 stuff.i would check to see if the ecu is getting its signal from the ignitor. if not make sure ignitor and vr sensor in the dizzy are functioning.
if it is getting the signal,(should be switching 5v or 12v signal i dont remember.) then check for an output signal from the ecu.if no signal the circuits burned up in the computor.
if its getting a signal to the ignitor, its either the coil or the ignitor. resistance check the coil.i dont know how to check the ignitor. i would swap mine with my brothers just to check. you do have a good engine to chassis ground right?
ok well friday night I pulled the engine harness back out of the car...
Saturday commensed the revival of a late ae92 harness. Completely went through it and someone else was in that harness before. There was wires cut and POORLY soldered. Also swapped out the 26 pin connector as it seemed a little shady. Low and behold... I HAVE MOTHA F****N SPARK!!!!!!!!!!! I only had 2 of 4 sparking. No G2 signal.. wtf... swapped out to the original CAS again. WOOT! all 4 cylinders are sparking nicely now. Only problem is it acts as if it's sparking a little soon then the damn battery died again. So I charged it up last night, and round 1,425 will begin shortly. If it starts the fuel pump will be changed today as well.... not looking forward to it as I have over 3/4th of a tank of gas.
Still need Diff fluid, a 2" to 2.25" 30 or 45* coupler and a straight 2" to 2.25" coupler, need to extend the heater core hose up a little, put the alternator bracket back in the car and put the alternator in, and wait til wednesday when the 5 rib 36" belt (50360) gets here from vato zone. Then radiator and it's wiring to go in. Then hopefully drive the damn thing! Still haven't uploaded any pictures due to me trying to get it to start now.
86boy wrote:... someone else was in that harness before. There was wires cut and POORLY soldered...
Obvious answer is obvious. None of us ever want to believe it and have to go there, but I'm glad you've sorted all of that out. So when do you think the car will be ready? Wednesday, maybe Friday?
86boy wrote:ok well friday night I pulled the engine harness back out of the car...
Saturday commensed the revival of a late ae92 harness. Completely went through it and someone else was in that harness before. There was wires cut and POORLY soldered. Also swapped out the 26 pin connector as it seemed a little shady. Low and behold... I HAVE MOTHA F****N SPARK!!!!!!!!!!! I only had 2 of 4 sparking. No G2 signal.. wtf... swapped out to the original CAS again. WOOT! all 4 cylinders are sparking nicely now...
The good first (since it happened in this order) I got it started and it breathed a little life.
The bad (really hard to refrain from swearing at this point in time) is it started to clatter like crazy as if it wasn't getting any oil. The cams buckets were soaked in oil. I didn't look at the gauge because I kinda freaked out when it did this and killed the engine. Mind you the engine should be primed more than enough with oil on how many time I've cranked on this.
Started up for a few seconds then died. adjusted the CAS started it up and it ran for a few seconds and everything was gravy. Adjusted and started it up for a 3rd time. It stumbled a little then cleared out and revved up and dropped the rpm back down then went up again and on it's way down the second time.... CLITTITY CLACK CLACK CLACK. as if it was coming from the head.
Checked the valve clearances and going off the 88-89 rebuild pdf from MR2occ or something like that. it states the valves should be in this spec while the engine is cold (I also posted in the 16 valve area of the forum):
Intake: 0.006-0.010"
Exhaust: 0.008-0.012"
Is this correct for a 4agze? I've been trying to find it but I'm not sure what the real name of it is. I just know it as shimming valves. Anyways on the #3 cylinder both intake valves were out of that spec. the (counting valves from the front of the engine) 5th valve was 0.012" and 6th valve was 0.011" and the exhaust side 13th valve was 0.013".
Think that would be enough to make a notable noise. I did kinda f-bomb up and didn't check it before starting the engine. I do remember the guy telling me that if they don't have the shims there he'd make them.... which kind of scares me now that I really think about it. Those shims should be hardened steel or some equivalent strength metal. If there is just general wtf ever steel he used... it could have been in spec hence why the engine decided to start clickit-tay clackin when it revved the second time. mashed the shims he "made" and widened the gap.
this is getting long and I have to work in the A.M. but if anyone knows where I can buy shims I'll re-do them my damn self.
Make them themselves? Unless they have in house machining equipment I'd go with the proper shims.
I responded to your post in the tech section.
Just check your clearances. Find the proper feeler thickness that gets your slight drag between the shim and the cam lobe and where they're out of spec, pull the shims, measure with a vernier and add the feeler size to the shim to get the proper shim size.
Remember to keep track of which lifter needs which shim size. Paper and pencil is our friend.
