www.86garage.com

OK I updated the thread in the 16v section again.

I'm going to drain the oil and attempt to take the oil pan off and check things in the bottom end

I responded to your thread in the 16v section.

I raise you your response with TWO responses. haha.

well lookie what I found here....I poured oil over the valve train from front to back on both intake and exhaust sides. just to double up on the lubrication. Then they thing there was something in the way... so I might have to tear down my entire engine again because of this crap. This is just another reason I HATE taking stuff to a shop. I really need to move somewhere where I can put all the tools machines whatever I want in.... bleh.

You just have to find a shop that's trust worthy is all. They're not all questionable.

ya this is the only shop around here... I know i'll be sending my stuff either A. down to texas or B. finding a place in Denver, CO and dropping it off and picking it back up there.

Where in NE are you?

PM'd you

Here's some pictures that I've been meaning to post up.... but haven't....haha I went through the bottom end just to check torque on the con rods and main bolts... and everything seems good. So HOPEFULLY when I get that bucket and shim back... I can throw it in put it all back together and fire it up and get the timing set. damn it.

I have a check engine light... but it only comes on when I crank on the engine then after a few cranks it turns on... not fully sure wth is going on there, because it doesn't turn on when you initally turn the key on. Also with this the speed sensor clicks like crazy until I crank on it then that stops as soon as the check engine light comes on. I've checked grounds... and so far nothing seems to make a difference.


after the 3rd round of the harness....


the new wheels... need to clean em up and get tires yet.


here's a little comparison of zenki open diff axles vs weir performance 30 mm axles




slightly twisted 1 axle


The instrument cluster stripped for the tach mod which there is a typo in the "text" portion of the values. it claims 60k (which should be 62k) but looking at the colors on the resistor from his picture it's actually a 62k ohm resistor. here's the link of what i'm talking about. -->> http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=68162


Then I got my other CAS, the 86 garage magazine, the solder sucker!, and a digital level from home depot (in the black and red case towards the top of the picture)


Spool installed and so are the axles after spending 2 hours cleaning the housing out.... lol


here's one of my many box diagrams... I actually have the complete pin out of an ae101 ecu as well as the late ae92 ecu. I still need to clean up my excel document and post that up. So be looking for that soon! So don't try to go off of this... as there's a couple mistakes that I changed in my excel document but not on the box haha. including all the changes for wires since I can't seem to find those anywhere online. Might help some out.

Awesome update! Diggin' the cardboard instructions

That magazine completes the scenario .

You have "another" CAS? What's wrong with the other one? If it's still available would you be willing to part with it for experimental purposes?

Well..... I tried it and no g2 signal but the metal contacts look dirty. So im going to clean it up and try it out again.

Since I have a hard time sourcing parts I might keep it for a bit

OK so I believe I need to take 5/8th of an inch off the length due to the trans flange u-joints being longer on the w55 vs the T50 flange. Love me some "crayons" hahahah and as you can probably tell I'm not very artistic but you get the point

I like it, thorough as always

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Like the colorful instructions. Thumb tack it to your garage wall when you're done

Too bad its not my garage hahahhaa!!