dr.occa co-roara
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- Hades - Site Admin
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the car made it home just fine at 40-45mph. got back in 30 minutes. it was an opportunity for my daughter Charis and I to visit and catch up.CBR_TOY wrote:so what exactly happened again?
will and i talked some sunday evening. it might and might not be rod knock. checked the dipstick sunday afternoon: oil was perfect - clear, thick and full. oil pressure was where it should be on the drive home.
will had a situation where a shim got "spat" (is that a real word???) out and sounded a lot like rod knock. so, i'm going to check under the valve covers first and check things out before assuming and doing anything DRASTIC.
if it ends up being the worse, i've got a complete ae92 smallport/hi-comp waiting in the wing. it would be a real shame if my ST block were shot though.
well if it is rod knock the block will be fine and the the crank will probably be fine as well. You might be able to just replace the rod bearings and put it back together. Oh and that guy with the coupe at the event said he had a lifter? break and it made that same kind of sound
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- Hades - Site Admin
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pulled the valve covers: all shims and buckets accounted for .
looks like the next "best" possibility is what i feared: rod knock.
i should've had the bottom end checked and balanced before using it. very heart breaking. if the block & crank are still good to use, then i'll continue with the "1620".
looks like the next "best" possibility is what i feared: rod knock.
i should've had the bottom end checked and balanced before using it. very heart breaking. if the block & crank are still good to use, then i'll continue with the "1620".
still have them but i'm worried about the crank and the block.CBR_TOY wrote:you do still have the st rods/pistons don't you jonas?
block will be fine you deffinatly didnt break a rod or you wouldent have made it home and thats the only way you could hurt the block unless a ringland broke or somthing. Maybeget someone to crank it with the valve covers off and the ignition disconnected and see if you can hear where its coming from.
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hey jonas got some important questions for you.......What oil pump are you running? What rpm's where you reving to? Didi you find out if the noise was from the head? I did some research and if your motor does infact have rod knock I may know why and if it does you cab fix it pretty easy without pulling the motor.
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- Hades - Site Admin
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ok, made more modifications to the suspension: altered caster, dialed in more realistic camber and adjusted wheel base. also added a few goodies.
did some work to the "just in case" hi-comp head that's going into the car. see if you can tell what was done.
before:
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... yl-02a.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600">
after:
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... yl-02b.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600">
swapped over the timing belt cog, belt guide, waterpump assembly, plugged inj. ports w/ 5/8 freeze plugs, through the crank pulley, pick-up and wp pulley on just to have a place for them.
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... C04033.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600">
installed a set of cool new colt cams that are meaner than the last ones i had in there ....mean!!!....grrrrr!
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... C04034.jpg" border="0" width="600" height="800">
ran into one or two obstacles but thank God i was able to solve them though it cut into the amount of time i was shooting for to spend on it this sunday afternoon.
i'll finish putting the upper water housing, timing belt, secure the pick-up, valve covers, clutch assembly, alternator bracket & motor mounts and engine/tranny "stays" on either side of the block.
i may wait to mount the carbs after the plant is in the bay just to be sure there aren't any problems plopping it in place.
planning on just ignition alterations but it'll still be programmable waste spark w/ a little change .
will also be adding a TPS and converting the MJLTjr to be able to read either MAP or TPS at the flip of a switch.
shooting to have the car back on the road in 2 weeks. here's hoping.
did some work to the "just in case" hi-comp head that's going into the car. see if you can tell what was done.
before:
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... yl-02a.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600">
after:
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... yl-02b.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600">
swapped over the timing belt cog, belt guide, waterpump assembly, plugged inj. ports w/ 5/8 freeze plugs, through the crank pulley, pick-up and wp pulley on just to have a place for them.
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... C04033.jpg" border="0" width="800" height="600">
installed a set of cool new colt cams that are meaner than the last ones i had in there ....mean!!!....grrrrr!
<img src="http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i153/ ... C04034.jpg" border="0" width="600" height="800">
ran into one or two obstacles but thank God i was able to solve them though it cut into the amount of time i was shooting for to spend on it this sunday afternoon.
i'll finish putting the upper water housing, timing belt, secure the pick-up, valve covers, clutch assembly, alternator bracket & motor mounts and engine/tranny "stays" on either side of the block.
i may wait to mount the carbs after the plant is in the bay just to be sure there aren't any problems plopping it in place.
planning on just ignition alterations but it'll still be programmable waste spark w/ a little change .
will also be adding a TPS and converting the MJLTjr to be able to read either MAP or TPS at the flip of a switch.
shooting to have the car back on the road in 2 weeks. here's hoping.
Last edited by dr.occa on Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:31 am, edited 1 time in total.