www.86garage.com

So I went and got my spare head from my mom's house last night... Then went out haha. So today I went out and pulled the intake side buckets/shims out of the spare head. Used my caliper and measure out each one and wrote on them with a sharpie. I then put 2 buckets/shims in torqued the cam down rolled it over a few times and checked them. 1 bucket was 0.010" cool w/e that'll work for now. The other was at 0.015" pulled it back out and threw in a 0.006" thicker one as that's the closest I had. put everything back in, and rolled it over a few times then checked again. 0.009" woot! everything is "within" spec or damn close. I put everything back together and attempted to start it up....not having to high of hopes I got this... Also sorry about not being able to embed it but I've only uploaded it to facebook so far.

https://www.facebook.com/video/video.ph ... 8080&saved

i dont do facebook. i hope it was good news.

That's just a link to the video, and it's public so you don't have to have an account to view it. Also yes it's good news! lol!!

86boy wrote:That's just a link to the video, and it's public so you don't have to have an account to view it. Also yes it's good news! lol!!

Yay! Awesome!!!

another update for you all!

Got the alternator mounted up. Just not so sure about the pulley... it's a smooth pulley but I'm sick of trying to get the right size belt.... as no one seems to have a 35.5" belt.... oh well for now.



intercooler is in, radiator is in, headlight is back in, and most of the intercooler piping is almost there. I know I could have gone a shorter route....but I don't have a welder. Not sure I trust anyone around here either...plus I just wanna drive it!!!!!



Anyways I just need a new 90* coupler, and the intercooler piping will be done. Need a couple connectors for the fans on the radiator and wire that in. change the fuel pump, fill with antifreeze, fill the diff, adjust the toe a little bit, fill the ball joints with grease, and time the engine. I'm getting really close..... REALLY close. Oh and wire in the supercharger relay different than toyota had...since I'm not using the fuel relays which it taps into. Then it's on a driving spree before April 28th/29th to break it in... still need to order a clutch, and get the 1 piece driveshaft made along with a trans mount.

So to confirm: the Supra ignitor DID work correct? Are there any corrections that need to be made to the wiring picture I posted earlier?

It was hard to follow that due to having to repin it as I didn't have the other end of the connector. I'll post up the wire color diagram for the ignitor. Then to which wires etc. But yea it does work!!! I'll post that video on YouTube and embed the video lol

Fuel pump installed. Going to look for a top radiator hose that doesn't kink when I have it hooked up to the radiator. Figure a way to squeeze my 2" 90 degree coupler on a 2.25" pipe and I'll be set there. Then figure out the last couple wiring issues with the check engine light. Fill the ball joints tighten down the shock adjusters put the wheels back on..... and I think I can drive it!

ok so the car would start and run all by itself last week. I changed out the fuel pump and hooked up the intercooler now it starts and dies right away. I can hold the gas pedal a little bit and it stays running... kind of hard to check ignition timing when this is happening. I also had an issue with a blown EFI Main fuse (ae86 engine bay far right top blade fuse). I even cranked it over without holding the clutch to make sure the Walbro 255 was kicking on. Replaced the fuse and it seems to be holding so far. I still have nnnnnnnooooooooooooooo idea why the "rotary solenoid" (on the throttle body that's gray) clicks like a relay going off and on really fast, and no CEL with the key on. Crank on the car for 2-3 seconds clicking stops and the check engine light comes on. so strange.

So I can't check codes nor check timing as it won't even stay running currently. Definitely going to miss the first drift event up here now. I still have to get a clutch and a driveshaft haha. damn it oh well.

Anyone have any idea about the CEL/clicking? Even with the TE1 and E1 bridged nothing seems to change, and TE1 is hooked up to the correct pin and E1 is grounded. I'm so close... but feel so far away still. I had to give the timing light back as my friend needed it, and I obviously can't use it yet. lol Any help/hints/guesses? I'd appreciate it, because I've checked the wiring and everything seems to be correct with the wiring.

are you referring to the grey solenoid that has 2 vacuum connections coming out of it? mounts on the ze throttle body? if so, check your vacuum line routing. some of the older solenoids like that click and make racket when vacuum is applied on the wrong side(gm has the same problem). If you're pulling vacuum on the side that is supposed to be static, sometimes they'll click on and off.

No I'm referring to the little gray 3 wire piece that sits on the throttle body. I'll take a picture.

Bleh. I'm getting burned out on trying to figure this out.

Trying to figure out the key on no CEL and rotary solenoid clicking, crank CEL turns on and clicking goes away issue.

I set the TPS, and it idles good just doesn't want to rev

Car acts like it's hitting fuel/ignition cut. Cuts out completely at like 3-4,000 rpms and won't go any higher. and it kinda stumbles on it's way up to 3-4000 rpms. Tried to time the car, but the TE1 and E1 jumped doesn't seem to make a difference. They are wired in correctly to the right pins on the ECU. Anyone have any ideas?


I hate the 4agze.

Have u tried to rev it up by turning it by hand with the tps unplugged ? I had a similar problem a while back and the tps sensor was not on right. The grey part inside was not on the right way.

Well the TPS and rotary solenoid are in spec now. Car idles awesome. Still won't rev. Had a friend suggest leaky capacitors as he had issues in his DSM just like mine.... opened it up and sure as shit there's 2 caps that leaked all over the place. So either I rewire for the ae92 ecu or find 2 100uF caps....