My Fairlady Z
My Fairlady Z
My s30z (S31)
Spec:
Weber 40DCOE + SK adapter
432 Exhaust
SSR mesh 15x?
Fiberglass hood and hatch
After market Lip, spoiler, and ZG flares
Need body work (-_-)
Spec:
Weber 40DCOE + SK adapter
432 Exhaust
SSR mesh 15x?
Fiberglass hood and hatch
After market Lip, spoiler, and ZG flares
Need body work (-_-)
Z33,S31,HLS30
Update:
The tripple weber been rebuilt. It run fine but there is fuel dipping from the inlet side (-_-). After that I didnt start it at all. Now it won't start. (P_P)
New 5 months ago ( I only drive it less than 20 miles after I rebuilt the carbs Just start warm it up feed the battery like one time a week)
New spark plug Gap 0.44
New fuel filter ( Get dirty very quick)
New starter
New Battery
Rebuilt weber new gasket
after I have problem I put these new parts
New Wire
New Cap
New rotor
New Coil ( Accel universal 12v)
I set TDC and rotor point to cylinder#1 ( valve cylinder 1 fully close piston go highest)
Fuel pressure at 3.5
spray some fluid start
crank it up.
Sound like one cylinder fire up and gone.
Check all plug have spark.
I just order a new fuel pump Carter P4070
will see what happen.
Any suggestion? Help me!!!
The tripple weber been rebuilt. It run fine but there is fuel dipping from the inlet side (-_-). After that I didnt start it at all. Now it won't start. (P_P)
New 5 months ago ( I only drive it less than 20 miles after I rebuilt the carbs Just start warm it up feed the battery like one time a week)
New spark plug Gap 0.44
New fuel filter ( Get dirty very quick)
New starter
New Battery
Rebuilt weber new gasket
after I have problem I put these new parts
New Wire
New Cap
New rotor
New Coil ( Accel universal 12v)
I set TDC and rotor point to cylinder#1 ( valve cylinder 1 fully close piston go highest)
Fuel pressure at 3.5
spray some fluid start
crank it up.
Sound like one cylinder fire up and gone.
Check all plug have spark.
I just order a new fuel pump Carter P4070
will see what happen.
Any suggestion? Help me!!!
Z33,S31,HLS30
Thats a heck of a prob, but it sounds ignition related. Are FOR SURE you have spark? ex. pull a plug and watch it spark when turned over.
Otherwise I would say the dizzy is misaligned, unless its like one of those that plugs into the oil pump and it can only be put in 2 ways.
Otherwise I would say the dizzy is misaligned, unless its like one of those that plugs into the oil pump and it can only be put in 2 ways.
[img]http://i37.tinypic.com/2m6keid.jpg[/img]
It has 1981 280zx distributor which is an electronic one. It has electronic module on the side. I hook it up like this
As for the spark I test with this testing light. The light on every cylinder.
I actually pulled 2 plugs out and see the actual spark. I will test all plugs later just to make sure.
As for the distributor It might be misaligned. How can I re align it? Can I just turn the crank to TDC and turn dizzy to point at cylinder one?
What would happen if the electronic module is bad?
(-_-) . . .
As for the spark I test with this testing light. The light on every cylinder.
I actually pulled 2 plugs out and see the actual spark. I will test all plugs later just to make sure.
As for the distributor It might be misaligned. How can I re align it? Can I just turn the crank to TDC and turn dizzy to point at cylinder one?
What would happen if the electronic module is bad?
(-_-) . . .
Z33,S31,HLS30
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would this help?
also, found this:
"ENGINE TIMING
This is the #1 problem on newly rebuilt Z motors: the engine cranks, with backfires out the carbs/airbox, but won't start. This because you have the distributor oil pump shaft 180 degrees off. I did this myself on my first rebuild, it's very common. There's some confusion on the proper method, this is the secret to getting it right:
-Set the engine to 0 TDC on the front pulley.
-Open the oil cap and look at the front 2 cam lobes, they should be pointing up. If they are down you need to rotate the engine once more to 0 TDC.
-Now at 0 TDC, with the front two cam lobes pointing up, the distributor rotor should be pointing at 9'ish o'clock. If the rotor is at 3 o'clock then you put the oil spindle in 180 degrees off.
-In other words: At 0TDC with the cam lobes up....the rotor tip will always be at about 9-10 o'clock if the spindle is in properly.
"
credit goes to Mr.G from the ZClub.net and Bryan Little from DatsunZGarage.com
also, found this:
"ENGINE TIMING
This is the #1 problem on newly rebuilt Z motors: the engine cranks, with backfires out the carbs/airbox, but won't start. This because you have the distributor oil pump shaft 180 degrees off. I did this myself on my first rebuild, it's very common. There's some confusion on the proper method, this is the secret to getting it right:
-Set the engine to 0 TDC on the front pulley.
-Open the oil cap and look at the front 2 cam lobes, they should be pointing up. If they are down you need to rotate the engine once more to 0 TDC.
-Now at 0 TDC, with the front two cam lobes pointing up, the distributor rotor should be pointing at 9'ish o'clock. If the rotor is at 3 o'clock then you put the oil spindle in 180 degrees off.
-In other words: At 0TDC with the cam lobes up....the rotor tip will always be at about 9-10 o'clock if the spindle is in properly.
"
credit goes to Mr.G from the ZClub.net and Bryan Little from DatsunZGarage.com
Damn.
Is the timing on the cams set right? If the dizzy is like the one on my 4ac, its driven by a gear on the end of the cam. But like I said earlier, it appears you can only have the dizzy right the 1st or 2nd time because of the flat oilpump drive design.
Im stumped.
Is the timing on the cams set right? If the dizzy is like the one on my 4ac, its driven by a gear on the end of the cam. But like I said earlier, it appears you can only have the dizzy right the 1st or 2nd time because of the flat oilpump drive design.
Im stumped.
[img]http://i37.tinypic.com/2m6keid.jpg[/img]