Need Suspension set up suggestions!

CASTREX · Post by **CASTREX** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:37 pm

it does make sense... however I'm worried about what ga_goosh just said:

"if you cut below the perch you will drop your car 40mm more than expected"

Is this true? I guess it is... and that would be a big problem.

I'm not worried about the welds showing... I can ask the shop to re inforce the strut if necesary...

Post by **dr.occa** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:43 pm

it won't matter where you cut because you're removing the same amount of material. you're still going to grind down the perch left overs after you cut it off or did i misunderstand you and AREN'T cutting the stock perches?

if you are just planning to use the stock perches than ga-goosh is correct that cutting below the perches you will essentially drop the perches 40mm.

either way, it looks like cutting above the perch is STILL your best option. in either situation.

CASTREX · Post by **CASTREX** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:46 pm

That's the point!!! I'm not cutting the stock perch....!

I will be using some regular sport lowering springs... so I need the perches.

I'm not doing coilovers... not yet anyways

CASTREX · Post by **CASTREX** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:07 pm

Thanks Doctor!

You aswered my question. Already gave the shop the right instructions and the shorted struts will be ready tomorrow!

I will be doing the full prothane bushings swap in a couple of weeks... I will be posting then for sure!!!

DjSpecter · Post by **DjSpecter** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 2:31 pm

YAAAHHOOOO!!! throw up some pics and let up see!! As for I will be doing the same bushings and rubber replacmens from energysuspension.com

CASTREX · Post by **CASTREX** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:29 pm

OK, job done! :D ... but a new problem arised. As always, looking for some light from the 86 masters...

So the shop did a clean job... they end up cutting the 40mm from the top of the strut case and re did the thread. They also cut some 18mm spacer for the botom of the strut. The AGX's short stroke shocks fit in like a glove.

Since I was doing the suspension work I also asked the shop to cut some 30mm RCA's

Now my problem: I'm rubbing really bad... the outside wall of the tires against the fender. Nothing that could not be solved with some fender rolling... however I was not not rubbing at all before all this work. The car height is the same... I'm using the same springs i already had... if anything the fron of the car is stiffer due to the new shocks...

The RCA's are regular, no the ones that add camber and foot print.

So, could this rubbing be caused by the RCA's or something else?

My wheels are konig rewinds 0+ with 195/45/15 rubber. But this is also unchanged....

Any thoughts?

Post by **dr.occa** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 6:16 pm

it's only because it's lower.

are you running camber plates? if so give it no more than 3.5 degrees negative camber. it may solve your wheel rub.

also check that your toe is either 0 or -1.5 (toe in) at most.

CASTREX · Post by **CASTREX** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 11:05 am

Well... is not any lower than before. That's what is strange!

The car was already lowered aprox 2" and I re used the same springs (Tanabe GF's with 1 coil chopped)

So the overall height of the car is the same. The wheel gap is the same as before.

I don't have camber plates... and yes, some negative camber would solve the problem. The camber plates are next on my list.

Mt theory is that the lowered car with out the RCA's had already some negative camber which prevented any rubbing.

After I installed the 30mm RCA, they must have taken the camber back to it's OE figure and therefore now I'm rubbing.

I will just take the RCA's off until I can buy some caber plates...

I haven't chacked the toe... I will check that aswell. Thanks!

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 11:39 am

i would have to agree with you on the rca's being the issue..... they are to correct steering geomtry so that is probably the case

ga_goosh · Post by **ga_goosh** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:18 pm

yea +1 if your car isnt lowered at the moment then the rcas are not needed and should be taken off untill a lower ride is set up

toyota85ae86 · Post by **toyota85ae86** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:34 pm

ive been running trd 8/6 springs cut 1/2 coil kyb agx short stroke shocks, battle version NRCA, t3 camber plates energy bushings and megan tie rod ends.

i have crazy angle, it rides nice i was using it on my daily.

i have 3 degree neg camber, .5 degree toe out and 4 degree positive caster, setup works awesome, steer in on drifting and angle is crazy. initiations are awesome, its fun. i need a panhard rod though

hvguy · Post by **hvguy** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:36 pm

greddy coilover package

end of thread

Post by **dr.occa** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 8:42 pm

hvguy wrote:greddy coilover package

end of thread

lol! first you hate on them because of the River Oaks price now you love 'em as if you ran 'em all the time. you silly man you.

anyway, will loves his greddy setup but he rode and then drove in mine and said it felt just as good as his.

suffice it to say, there's a quite a few good choices out there and greddy does rock hard and orlando is rocking this setup as you can tell. but then, magic happens not because of the props but because of the magician manipulating the props.

would anyone like for me to saw them in half

DjSpecter · Post by **DjSpecter** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 11:20 pm

Im not going to lie I only got coilovers cause I wanted to lower my corolla. So I got the corolla and ordered the megan coilovers and BAM its lowered and I mean LOWERED. only 2" till it touches frame and not to mention the crazy ass camber I am runnin on the front. I mean only half the wheel is ALL used up. But everyone always told me just get tve swift spring or TRD springs but I was like. NOOO. When the coilovers are on everyone thinks there ride will be smoother and more enjoyable....

wrong!!!!
Coilovers were tested to be ridden hard and improve track time. Where else to test them..ON ThE TRACK. So please for those of you who want coilovers or are thinking of coilovers please take in to mind that every hole you hit will feel like you just hit a curb at 20mph. They dont make your car faster no do they make if ride be better. But what I can tell you is that they do improve your cornering and stiffens your ride up BIG TIME. almost like replacing your springs and strut with a bar. cause even on its softest setting Megans ride hard. But I may be wrong cause I never rode anything else as in Greddy or JIC or T3 or D2 or KSport. just throwing my 2 cents in.

CASTREX · Post by **CASTREX** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 12:17 am

ga_goosh wrote:yea +1 if your car isnt lowered at the moment then the rcas are not needed and should be taken off untill a lower ride is set up

The car is lowered...! is about 2" lowered. I jut said is not any lower than before I swapped the OE shocks for the KYB short strokes...

So the ride height iss the same... before the short strokes i was not rubbing... now I'm rubbing even with the stiffer shocks...
The only other changer other than the short stroke KYB shocks are the RCA's

So my guess is the rubbing was induced by the RCA's...