I wanna do this....

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Mon May 04, 2009 6:30 pm

one day when i'm ready to tear the car apart after i'm done drifting and ready for track onslaught

stolen from here. this guy is doing a no-expense considered n2 build!

http://www.aeu86.org/viewtopic/ae86/t/6 ... sc/start=0

ga_goosh · Post by **ga_goosh** » Mon May 04, 2009 6:36 pm

ohh that is awesome!! i want to do equal liength arms too but i like my interior too much

joel26 · Post by **joel26** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:07 pm

Good post........ :D

kevlar corolla · Post by **kevlar corolla** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:34 pm

I prefer the equal lenght 3 link over an equal lenght 4 link,for one you save the weight of 1 rod,2 rod ends and sheetmetal work for both mounts.Another plus is the 3 link can be tied directly into the roll cage instead of the unibody.
With a 3 link you could put 2 buckets in the back with a center console to hide the arm,seems point less to me especially if your going to have a cage though.

Post by **dr.occa** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:41 pm

cool build.

i've always thought that whether equal lengths or factory upper length links, more importantly, the mounting points for them on the axles should be inclined closer to factory angle to direct more of the chassis back onto the axles then the wheels.

still, it's a cool build don't get me wrong.

another option would be 3 links where you remove the upper links and go with a center link from a point inside the cabin out to the top of the diff.

i believe a prime example is kevlar's setup. he employs that type of link design.

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Mon May 04, 2009 11:39 pm

kevlar.... your 86 never ceases to amaze me

very awesome work there with the three link setup

ga_goosh · Post by **ga_goosh** » Tue May 05, 2009 2:41 pm

hey cbr if you can make these you would save some cash. iv seen these kits go for $700+ do you know where you would get the arms?

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Tue May 05, 2009 2:55 pm

not sure on the arms but the gussets i could make all day....

i'm assuming if they're equal link then you would just run a pair of the same links as the botom

ga_goosh · Post by **ga_goosh** » Tue May 05, 2009 3:12 pm

yea that would work but who wants to buy 2 sets of 4 link bars and throw the other half away? any ways there are some armes on speedwaymotors.com Here is a link. you can choose your lengths. then just buy some heims.

Post by **dr.occa** » Tue May 05, 2009 3:33 pm

speedwaymotors is always a good source for custom suspension parts.

the only problem is it's all in SAE. no metric so you'll have to do some adjusting when you go to install it.

ga_goosh · Post by **ga_goosh** » Tue May 05, 2009 3:37 pm

yea that is true but a good price for what it is. do you know where to get metric arms from?

Post by **dr.occa** » Tue May 05, 2009 3:41 pm

ga_goosh wrote:yea that is true but a good price for what it is. do you know where to get metric arms from?

metric spherical rod ends are a bit pricey. the LH/RH tapped arms are a bit easier to come by. google should be able to point someone in the right direction....probably.

ga_goosh · Post by **ga_goosh** » Tue May 05, 2009 3:48 pm

i can find metric sphirical joints for 11.80 ea (specs below) but im not sure if they are the right ones to use. they are rated at 5804lb

Rod End Type Ball Joint Rod Ends
Ball Joint Rod End Type High Strength Ball Joint Rod Ends
Shank Type Male Shank
Shank Thread Type Right Hand Thread
Ball Joint Lubrication Self-Lubricating
Housing Material Steel
Housing Material Information Zinc Plated
Ball Material Steel
Ball Material Information Oil Impregnated
Liner Material Without Liner
Shank Thread Size M12 x 1.75
Thread Length (A) 33 mm
Inside Diameter (B) 12 mm
Outside Diameter (C) 30 mm
Housing Thickness (D) 10.75 mm
Base to Center Length (E) 54 mm
Overall Thickness (F) 16 mm
Maximum Ball Swivel (23Â° to 35Â°) 27Â°
Static Radial Load Capacity 5,804 lbs.
Specifications Met Not Rated

besides they dont have to be metric. if you have access to a laith or can get some spacers made it can be fitted to any sphirical rod end and still fit snug on the oem bolt. which is the direction i will prolly take for my 4 link bars