How to: rebuild rear calipers

[85levin]

what you need:
toyota rear caliper rebuild kit

it would also be good to change out the bleaders and check the sliders, if needed toyota sells those too

long snap ring pliers
flat head screw driver
assortment of picks
rear caliper compresion tool
2 cans of brake cleaner
600 grit sand paper
magnet
1 inch deep socket
shop rags
tooth brush (do not use after, lol)
17mm wrench
14mm wrench
needle nose pliers

air compressor and a vise would be nice but not neccesary.

i will skip caliper removal baceause if attemping this you should at least be able to get this far.



next, you extend the caliper piston about 1/3 out by turning it counter clockwise this is for ease of removing the boot rataining clip along the inside of the boot on the caliper side.


after the clip is out, you can pull out the boot by hand


now, using the rear caliper tool, turn the caliper piston counter clockwise untill you remove it completely


this is when i felt glad i started. mud!


next, remove the square seal. (anytime you use tools in this area be very carefull to not scratch the surface)

[85levin]

now, dump out the remaining brak fluid in the caliper spray a little brake cleaner in it to drain it out completly and using the snap ring pliers (again being carefull not to scratch the surface) remove the snap ring inside the piston bore


once the snap ring is removed, using some needle nose pliers or curved pick pull out the cap and spring. do not turn around the caliper or you will drop remaining parts inside.


next, pull the threaded rod straight out. if it is hard use a rag and the needle nose, using minimal pressure. this is what will come out excluding the cap and spring which you already removed.


after that, using your magnet, reach inside the bore where the threaded rod was installed and pull out this little pin on your left in the picture


now, turn the caliper around and loosen the 17mm nut on the e-brake arm then pull it straight out breaking the seat from the bust boot.


now using the flat head, pry off the e-brake "cam" prying on the larger lobe of the steel base.
this is what you are left with. remove the sliders and clean all your parts and calipers with brake cleaner and the tooth brush. this is what you should have.


i hit the calipers with a wire wheel and painted them black. not necessary your choice on that.

[85levin]

now for the assembly. using the 600 grit sand paper lightly sand the inside of the piston bore in a cicular manner as if it where "the shocker". lol. spray more brake cleaner and dry with a cloth.
install the e-brake "cam" properly greased with the supplied grease only. make sure the indentation on the cam faces the bore of threaded rod


next, replace the o-ring on the threaded rod. put a dab of grease on the tip so it holds the pin in place and install. put pressure on the threaded rod and turn the cam sligtly, you should fell it being pushed back it not, turn more untill it falls into place.


then, install the remaining parts in the bore in this order. make sure that the first washer (the bigger one) aligns with the notches in the bore. if it doesn't, turn the threaded rod untill it does.



now, intall the snap ring. i used the snap ring pliers and the flat head. this is not an easy task, to take your time, be careful not to scratch the sides of the bore. you have to alighn the base of the cap trough the bore where the snap ring installs, it is a tight fit and gets caught in the groove when you push it down. many snap rings are directional, these are, smoother edge faces down in this application.


after, install the e-brake cam bust boot, using the 1 inch deep socket, tap it down with a malet, careful not to damage the rubber.


next, install the new square seal in the bore. you don't need any tool for this.


then, lightly grease the piston with the supplied grease only and install. should be a little hard to turn. it goes in clockwise.

[85levin]

get the piston about 1/3 out then grease up the dust boot and install onto the piston. these are dirrectional so look closely at the picture. then thread it deeper in and push the bottom of the boot in the groove. i used the thin red tube off the brake cleaner bottle. then install the dust boot retaining clip again i only used the red tube. you can use uthe dull objects with minimal pressure. you don't want to damage the new rubber.



now thread all the way in and make sure the dust boot retracts properly.


last but not least, install the sliders properly grease


now install everything back in the car and bleed your brakes.

[Ricky86]

Great write up man .

[joel26]

yes good write up +1...

[dr.occa]

you've got my as well. good job on this write up.

[85levin]

thanks guys, this is the first write up i have ever done. if any step is unclear please lmk.

[pecx]

Good write up ! ^_^

[85levin]

thank you.

[c4ptiv3]

thank you jebus for this write up. I was just fixin to ask for a how to!

[c4ptiv3]

I have bent the arm on the caliper compression tool trying to unscrew the piston. It will not come out. Any ideas?

[mooreofit]

which tool where using? the cube or the screw and sleeve type?

also place a rag over the piston and apply compressed air to the feed line inlet.ive never tried this on a actuating caliper but it should work.

[c4ptiv3]

Screw and sleeve. We got it to turn past that point but now no matter which way you turn it screws in. Thinking I broke something

[BKH808]

How much did you pay for the rebuild kit?