bt rebuild?

[85levin]

did a compression test and came up with 120psi all across. after squirting oil into the cylinders they all gave me higher compression ratios, which tells me the rings are shot. my engine was always ran with open itbs by the previous owner. before i installed it into my car i disassembled it for clean up, and replaced all the seals and gaskets. i only plan to use this engine for about a year more so i want to keep the list to a minimum but want to have it in good working condition. this is what i believe i will need so far.

trd head gasket
arp rod bolts
arp main bolts
arp head bolts
piston rings
main bearings
rod bearings
thrust bearings
balance rotating assembly
hone block (hopefully i can still keep stock pistons)
possibly 3 angle valve job if the is no other hidden parts to be replaced
possibly oil pump

i know i can use the 16v head gasket with the rs chita water line kit i have, what other parts from this list can be used from the 16v? anything else i should replace? anything i should remove from the list that is really unnecessary?

found this guy on club4ag with good prices on a lots of stuff i will be needing, any input will help.
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=72261

[GTSRolla34]

So you're going to rebuild the engine, but only use it for a year? Are you ditching the engine after that year? If that's the case, I would just do a stock rebuild. If you just want the engine to run strong for a year, just buy stock parts. No need to buy ARP hardware and other aftermarket items unless you plan on trying to sell the engine for a premium price.

What exactly are you hoping to get out of the rebuild? I'm just a bit confused when you say you only plan on using the engine for a year.

For me, a good working BT rebuild would need:

Toyota Gasket kit (with the money you save on ARP hardware and the TRD headgasket you can buy the gasket kit through Pass racing)
Main/Rod/Thrust Bearings (should be able to source these affordably through most bearing manufacturers: Clevite, ACL, etc.)
Toyota Oil Pump (Pass Racing may have them in stock)
Basic machine work.

I understand the appeal of balancing the engine and having some basic head work done, but if you only intend to run the engine for a year, I don't see the point. If, however, after that year you plan on doing further modifications, then by all means stick with your list. For a stock engine that will only see a year of possible use by you, it doesn't seem necessary to go all out on parts if you're looking to keep the parts list to a minimum.

[85levin]

i only use my car on the track. i want it running strong and reliable for a year max while i gather parts for a swap. if i can gain a little bit more power with a little extra money i will do it, that is why i was planning on a trd head gasket, and balance for reliability. though, maybe the arp hardware is unnecessary. and i am unsure about the oil pump too, i replaced all the seals and gaskets with only about 5 hours of race use.

[mooreofit]

i would go get a low miliage 7a block from the junkyard and be done with it.100 bucks plus 50 buck headgasket. some say they dont make power in the upper rpm rang but thats because of the deck hight. cam gears will fix this.

i would just rock the stocker till it went anyways.

also you are supposed to pre lube the cylinders with oil before a comp test, and you WILL see an increase in pressure anytime you add oil to the combustion chamber when comp testing. i would recomend a leak down test to verify your conclusion. good luck brosef.

[dr.occa]

v8. affordability, last longer than a year, still all stock, stupid torque and still true to the manufacturer family.

the 86 chassis is a small back pack to the v8. it's almost just a lightened flywheel to the motor. less effort spent moving it and won't feel like a beast of burden.

[85levin]

7a? i don't think i can find one out here Alan, especially for that price plus i would need a hg and timing belt right? i don't even know how to build that hybrid. what numbers can i see with that build? what is the rave range? sounds very appealing though. my car definitely needs more torque for road racing.

backpack? lol. not a big fan of that motor Jonas want to go f20 with dry sump to get it lower and further back.

[mooreofit]

sure you can. those came in the 93-97 corollas. projectgofast is running a 7a. he says power falls off around 6000 rpms but he is running stock 4age cam gears and with the extra deck hight throws of the cam timing causing the intake cam to be slightly advance causing the powerband to move down the rpm range. getting aftermarket adjustible cam gears fix this allowing you to then retard the camshaft to move the powerband back up the rpm range.you need a porshe 924 timing belt and whatever else you need from a standard head removal procedure.

as far as power increase i would say 5% max. but i have seen a 7age 16v somewhat stock put down 160whp. basically itb's 7a and a microtech.

[85levin]

much better torque numbers too i suppose. i only have an adjustable cam gear on my exhaust cam. would i keep the 4ag pistons? where can i find more info on this?

[85levin]

what water pump would i use? can i still keep the same clutch and flywheel? can i still keep my16v aluminum crank, water pump and alternator pulleys? are the 7afe head bolts the right size for the bt head? i also have some silvertop pistons.

[mooreofit]

if you run the 7a pistons you compression will drop to 8.5-1 i would run silvertops but it will cost you 15 bucks to have the pistons pressed on the rods. that also means you run the risk of spinning a bearing if they arnt installed perfectly clean and dry. i dont like opening up a bottom end that is not being sent off to the hot tank before reassembly.

you need to run all the 20v ancilliary's and pulleys. the 7a\4a blocks are basically the same.

i forgot about vvti. i would delete it and get bigger cams. i wouldnt expect too much of a torque increase.

my completely stock 7aFe made 89 horse and 90 foot pounds on 30,000 mile oil. not bad i dont think

[mooreofit]

google search 7age conversion for more results.

[85levin]

have been researching the swap all day, it is fairly straight forward. though, it will still be more time consuming and expensive than just replacing my rings and bearings which is probably the direction i am going.
thank you for your help Alan, do you happen to know if i can use piston rings, main, rod and thrust bearings from a different engine?

[mooreofit]

for the 20v?

if so then you can just get a small port re ring kit. i might be mistaken. does the 20v have the 42mm or 40mm rod journal? if its 42mm then just go with smallport rebuild stuff. but thats only for the bottom end and the oil pump is probably different.

[85levin]

disassembled the engine except for the block. journals are 42mm, will do more research on using small port parts. hopefully i can get away with that, pass racing will take 3 weeks to deliver and for rings bearings and trd hg wants a little over 500.

[mooreofit]

go with a cometic. a little over 100 bucks . small port stuff should all be good. except maybe the oilpump.