DIY: swapping an AE92 4AGZE into a zenki AE86 GT-S

[4agshoob]

also on the 22 pin non ecu connector from your gze harness youll see 2 yellow/black wires. one of these wires are for your oil pressure guage. using your ohm meter, find continuity from the oil pressure sending unit connector , to the corresponding pin/wire on the 22 pin connector.....V



again , on the 12 pin chassis conector, you will find a yellow/black wire as well....you guessed it, connect these together. and you know have your oil pressure guage working in your gauge cluster.....V



okay, now lets get the gze ecu to signal your ae86 chassis's fuel pump wiring. the fuel pump is directly energized by the AE86's circuit opening relay......located here.....V




on your AE86 COR (circuit opening relay) youll see a green/red wire.........V


on your gze 22 pin ecu connector youll also see a green/red wire, to ensure the right wire, this goes to "FC" in the ECU.....V



join the green/red wire from the 22 pin gze ECU connector to the green/red wire on the COR........V

[4agshoob]

to make the bracket i basically used the original gze bracket that had the p/s, a/c, and alt on on it. i cant really explain how to cut it, all i can do is show you pictures....i can also tell you the "tensioner" i used was $1.49 at tractor supply company , and its pretty close to what NST sells for $40 http://www.nonstoptuning.com/pNSTaltKit.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; just without the super cool bolt hiem joints. for the "L" bracket on the block use your imagination , just make sure its strong enough to hold the pressures and tension of the alternator tensioner and more importantly the load that will be placed on the alternator during operation.

now being that the rwd motor mount is now in place , this pushes the alt bracket away from the block about 4mm. well the rear mount postion, this is fine because it rest on the rwd motor mount tab. on the forward mounting hole youll have to use 2-3 washers between the bracket and the block to flush the mount up strait.

[4agshoob]

now , if your car isnt at stuper stance like mine , you wanna spring for either of the following , to mount your alternator....


1st gen 4afe
4agze aw11
4ac

[4agshoob]

now that the most confusing part of this swap is over. all i can do is try and answer questions. i know your thinking "what the hell , i thought this was a DIY". but when it comes to aftermarket front mount intercoolers, and piping , or choice in aftermarket radiator and mounting, it pretty much is a DIY. replacing a fuel pump with a higher volume unit , is pretty basic knowledge. if you didnt use anything aftermarket, and followed this guide: after you swap fuel pumps, hold your breath and turn the key.

with that ill post a few pics, i personally only have a few things left:

swapping fuel pump
after market oil cooler
changing the oil
filling with coolant
fuel return line (but im using an aftermarket ADJ. FPR)
bolt shifter into tranny
get new exhaust put on
and a few vacuum lines.









as i go thru and attemp to start the car , and see anything i miss , ill go back and edit it in in the appropriate sections of this DIY.

[86boy]

CRAZY MAD PROPS!!!

HOLY SHIT!!!!! <--- not sure if it's ok to swear but I am because it deserves it!!!!!

This is one of the most in depth swap guides I've seen! step by step with wiring even! I sir bow down to you for pure RESPECT!

yes I'm excited to see this, because I was starting to get a little worried.... I've never swapped a different engine (not there originally) into a car. I've done my fair share of swapping the same thing. I was thinking there was a LOT more to this swap. You just gave me all sorts of encouragement...

[4agshoob]

well , you still gotta change out the fuel pump to larger to stock to compensate for the larger demand of fuel........change radiators..(im using a civic shorty aluminum , with dual core , and 12" electric fan.) you dont have to do a front mount , but it helps keep the engine bay temp down.running an oil cooler is a good idea, and i dont mean the stock one , but im sure it would suffice but ill be using after market. in that case you either swap the oil pan for the 16v one with the oil inlet already there , or drill and tap the gze oil pan , and fit a NPT fitting to it , and use the OEM sandwitch plate from the 16v.

and i myself have encountered a bit of a problem....everything comes on , everything is getting juice , and the motor turns over , im getting spark....but for some reason my fuel pump isnt kicking on. i know its probably as simple as 2-3 wires, and i know where the confusion is...the ae92 4agze has its own seperate fuel pump relay on the engine harness , as well as a COR. but....the ae86 controls the fuel pump from the COR on the ae86 chassis.....so , i think i need to run the blue , and blue/black wires from the somewhere to somewhere else....if i cant figure it out , ill just put my fuel pump on a switch...

[86boy]

Yes sir!

I knew about the few other things (fuel pump, radiator, oil cooler, etc). there's always one or two things I miss or run into similar to the problem you have encountered! Which I was going to "upgrade"/swap out before I started to tear it down.

When I did my bluetop 4age swap into my car. It would start and run, but only for a few seconds then die. Stupid ground wire for the air sensor was broken in the harness. Fixed that and then ran like a champ.

oh btw what oil cooler are you planning on running?

[4agshoob]

a 14-row unit from a USPS mail truck, steel braided line, etc. it actually was a transcooler........i get them them second hand with their lines all the time. when the trucks reach 60k miles for their first major service interval, the trans is flushed , and new cooler fitted, so ive always got about 4-5 of these things all the time, they are one of the items i regularly sell.

[4agshoob]

ok , i got the fuel pump problem figured out. i turn the ignition on , and ground my multi meter , then go to touch the green/red wire on the COR and then the COR clicks on and my fuel pump comes online. and its only getting 4 volts......strange really. so i jumpered the green/red with a chassis ground to help it ground.

[4agshoob]

so i got it a little more buttoned up....

[4agshoob]

first start vid......


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkvi6LMoyxI" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[86boy]

werd! Take it for a test drive yet? or is the interior still all tore apart?! lol

[4agshoob]

yeah , i dont wanna tie up anything or reassemble anything till i know its gonna run absolutely right. havent test drove yet, the registration is expired, no insurance , and exhaust isnt back on yet.

[86boy]

fair enough. At least it runs! That's always a plus. Where did you get the piping for the intercooler?

[4agshoob]

ebay....cxracing

2" piping...the 4agze is finnicky with manifold pressure irregularity's. i think the intercooler is too big , but its the only one i could immediatly purchase, that would remotely fit without butchering the car up, plus by having it mounted the way it is , it keeps piping to a minimum........so i have 2 plans of action:

1. i have a 27"x6"x2.5" intercooler with enlogated end caps and 2.5" openings. im gonna have the welding shop cut the opening flanges off, and cap them , the weld me 2 2" pieces of pipe onto the back side of the end caps , pointing towards the engine bay. kinda like an srt4 intercooler. if i do that , it will fit perfectly between the headlights, and also give my radiator more cool air.


2. the intercooler thats in it now is 18"x12"x3", if you look at the pics above youll notice i have it at a 45 degree angle to allow air to pass thru the radiator a little more than if it were flush mounted against the radiator. im basically gonna have both end caps cut in half across the center, then cut off. then basically im gonna take the non outlet side of the end cap, flip it to the other non outlet side , and weld it back on like an end tank. then on the other side weld a block-off plate against the outlet where its cut , and then weld the other outlet on , on the other side of the block of plate. so that way it will be a single side entry and exit intercooler, and really reduce my piping.

the only other thing i think im gonna change , is the manifold entry pipe that bolts to the intake manifold , basically weld on a different elbow, then i have a 90* 2.5"to 2" boot leaving the s/cgoing forward. ill probably end up making this hard pipe as well.