AznTKDmstr (a.k.a. Thaison) Sweet GTS...

[mooreofit]

have them assemble it.

i didnt feel comfortable. jonas has put one together.

[dr.occa]

Oh, cool Thaison. It'll be sweet on your 2TC. The MJs (no, not Michael Jackson folks) are easier to assemble than MS units: less parts but smaller board though.

Did you go map or tps based?

[mooreofit]

it should still have a map sensor regardless of how you set it up. unless they changed that. does mj now have fuel control?

[AznTKDmstr]

oh.... well it was the diypnp for my 86. it just got in today... i'm gonna grab it after i get off work.

It's got a map sensor on it. I figured with a bunch of reading and soldering practice, I could put it together myself. If not, I'll grab one of me electrical engineering buddies, haha

[mooreofit]

wouldnt hurt to have one around while assembling

[dr.occa]

it should still have a map sensor regardless of how you set it up. unless they changed that. does mj now have fuel control?

You have to indicate whether you want it for either TPS or MAP. They don't have both normally unless you pay for both.

MJLJ is strictly programmable ignition control BUT the newer versions in development will no longer need Ford EDIS parts (you should be happy to hear that Alan!).
Here's a quick preview of what to expect!

[mooreofit]

very cool.

[AznTKDmstr]

Welp...i hope i did this correctly. I followed madeinthe80's thread on club4ag:
http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=57293&page=1

Combined with the thread by jamesL on DIYPNP:
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/apps/ ... .html#pump




I got confused with the OPTO GND and BL/TH that the directions called for. But i saw that madeinthe80's jumpered OPTO-GND. According to the DIYPNP article, I OPTO GND is supposed to be "on" so you connect the two? So I did so like madeinthe80's did here, with the metal loop next to the two resistors:


And didn't see anything soldered to where BL/TH was, so I left BL/TH alone and untouched. I think that "off" means you leave it untouched?

EFFF. I forgot the boot jumper....you kinda need this to load the firmware and maps onto the ecu... time to take it apart again...

[AznTKDmstr]

"DB9 serial connection: Optionally you can connect the two pins of the BL/TH jumper to send 5 volts to pin 9, which can be used for powering a Bluetooth or other wireless adapter. Some serial devices ground pin 9, so if you are using one of these (like the MegaView for instance), leave the BL/TH jumper out."

So that confirms my leaving BL/TH untouched.

And now I fixed the boot and soldered the jumper in there.

Sooo...up next - figuring out how to wire up my AEM uego wideband 02 sensor....

[mooreofit]

the wideband is the easy part...

tuning's a blast

[AznTKDmstr]

i think i'm going to replace the stock o2 sensor with the aem wideband. in the mean time, i've been bouncing around the idea of where i want to go with my spare rebuild ae101 block that i bought from Jonas last summer. I think i'm going to run the smallport for a long while as i BUILD the "new" motor. I'm thinking of swapping out the slugs to something forged - arias maybe? I've been reading this thread: http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=8827 to get different ideas etc.

As far as headwork goes, I'm doing a lot of reading and trying to figure out what I want. so far i'm thinking crower 272 cams with 8.1 lift, i've already purchased aftermarket oversized valves and stiffer valve springs. Maybe with some port work etc, i can squeeze some more NA power out of this little four banger.

setup:
ae101 block with forged hi-comp pistons, smallport head, 272 crower cams, valve springs, oversized valves, port/polish, adj cam gears, arp studs.

Any recommendations from you guys? this sound like a solid setup? should i run a stock headgasket or aftermarket? I want to try to make something that's "streetable" aka borderline is ok. i haven't done enough reading on motor building, so i'm gonna try and learn some more ishhhh.

[dr.occa]

Might as well add a valve angle job in there while you're at it.

[bt20v]

Might as well add a valve angle job in there while you're at it.

agreed! I would have done that to my motor but my plan is to keep this motor in till I start and finish my BT build. have you thought about maybe doing a cross breed motor might help you get a few more NA HP like you want.

[AznTKDmstr]

have you thought about maybe doing a cross breed motor might help you get a few more NA HP like you want.

That's what I was thinking when i wanted to do the 1620 build. Although it's doable and I know it becomes an interference engine...i don't wanna risk bent valves especially these oversized ones that i bought.

I figured I'll just run some forged high compression pistons to replace the stock silvertop ones that are currently in the block. And then just a TON of headwork.

[bt20v]

Any really high compression motor is going to be an interference motor unless the pistons are fly cut. even then you can have collisions. they should only collide if the timing belt breaks. I wouldnt worry about it to much. I was going to run my black top but im gonna build it for boost I think a turbo will do nicely