SR20det vs 4age black top

[JDMwhiteboy]

Ture its nice to stay in family, but there is a huge aftermarket for sr parts thats already in the US. The popularity of the 3S just isnt as large as it is in Japan. A good swap, yes. A cheep swap, not really.

[Gts_coupe87]

I added everything up and the Sr is just a little more
Expensive than the bt20v and that's not even including the
Stupid dizzy relocator..

[GTSRolla34]

You don't necessarily need a dizzy relocation kit and it can be done without banging in the firewall. You just have to get creative and pick your poison. The dizzy can be elimanted by going with a MS system and running a practically free (parts wise from the junk yard) EDIS setup, or the dizzy can be converted to a CAS by removing the cap/rotor and pulling signals from existing wires within the distributor. With the availability of affordable water blocks and headers it's a lot less work to run the 20V.

It sounds to me though like you're more set on running the SR. Every time a vote goes up for the 4A you throw in a but... and give a slight nod toward the SR. If that's the route you prefer, go with it. Not a big deal, but it seems you've already convinced yourself on some level that you'd rather install the SR. Considering that everyone so far has voted 20V you sort of know the opinion of most of the people on the board.

The way I look at it is you've already began prep on the 20V, so practicality says you should continue on that route. The SR is going to be a major step back b/c you'll be rewiring, remounting, replumbing, etc the entire vehicle. So for immediate power gains the SR pulls ahead. I'm a more practical person so I would continue on with the 20V, personally. If you're really wanting all that extra horsepower, though, go with the SR.

[Gts_coupe87]

You don't necessarily need a dizzy relocation kit and it can be done without banging in the firewall. You just have to get creative and pick your poison. The dizzy can be elimanted by going with a MS system and running a practically free (parts wise from the junk yard) EDIS setup, or the dizzy can be converted to a CAS by removing the cap/rotor and pulling signals from existing wires within the distributor. With the availability of affordable water blocks and headers it's a lot less work to run the 20V.

It sounds to me though like you're more set on running the SR. Every time a vote goes up for the 4A you throw in a but... and give a slight nod toward the SR. If that's the route you prefer, go with it. Not a big deal, but it seems you've already convinced yourself on some level that you'd rather install the SR. Considering that everyone so far has voted 20V you sort of know the opinion of most of the people on the board.

The way I look at it is you've already began prep on the 20V, so practicality says you should continue on that route. The SR is going to be a major step back b/c you'll be rewiring, remounting, replumbing, etc the entire vehicle. So for immediate power gains the SR pulls ahead. I'm a more practical person so I would continue on with the 20V, personally. If you're really wanting all that extra horsepower, though, go with the SR.

lol! as i laugh reading this im thinking to myself, "that was not my intention" it was just a coincidence but anywho. i was really trying to get yall to say to go with the 20v and yall been convinced me. As a matter of fact i should be purchasing one soon and im done with this sr vs 20 valve. im just gunna keep it original, u kno.. toyota with toyota.. "fan boy" if u wanna call it. well so be it.. :weapons31: :weapons26:

[GamblerZ]

I would say stay with the 20v only for the fact that everyone and their brother's dog is either doing an SR20DEt or LSx swap into whatever vehicle comes along.

Dare to be different...


...at least more so than others.

[supra_750]

Just a fyi u can run cops on a stock ecu so no need to cut the firewall or relocate the dizzy

[mooreofit]

^ yep. but theres still a little cost here. if you get the motor with the dizzy. bending up a box out of some scrap cutiing a hole and welding it in is close to free. i am a cheap bastard.

[supra_750]

Right but some ppl are horrified of the thought of cutting there firewall lol beat mine in nice and neat can't hardly tell it isn't factory.

[86boy]

ok so now since I currently own an sr20det and in a 240.... I can tell you one thing right now. If you do the SR you better go through EVERYTHING while it's OUT of the car. oil pump... PITA, turbo.... PITA, random stupid issues that you can't pinpoint due to intermitten noises/issues... PITA! SR20det do make good power but my 240 has been sitting in the driveway, and hasn't moved for a couple weeks now because I just don't want to work on that PITA.

common problems I've discovered with the SR20 is #3 rod bearing likes to go... oil pumps suck and fail more than they should... stock turbos suck, ISIS brand stuff for the sr20 SUCKS, and the cooling for those engine you better have damn good fans and a damn good radiator. I have a KOYO triple core all aluminum radiator, and its not bad when it's below 60 degrees out. If the ambient temp rises above 60 degrees everything seems to be good driving around, and then the fans kick on... cool the temp just keeps rising. awesome. I'm pretty sure this little whistling noise is the stock FPR, but it's hard telling as it comes and goes. One problem I have not had (although it's all stock) is the boost leaks except the first time, because I forgot to tighten down one of the couplers. I was kind of debating on picking up a little SR5 or something fairly cheap and putting an SR20 in it, but now I'm starting to have second thoughts.

So again if you do go with an SR20DET.... be sure to replace everything even if it looks good. Oil pump, water pump, thermostat, gaskets, bearings (rod/main), get the turbo rebuilt or upgrade, etc. If I am understanding this correctly the rod bearings are different sizes per rod. There's some marking on the block that tells you what "number" for the rod bearing per cylinder. PITA!!!!!

SR20's are quite maticulous.... some people have never had to touch theirs... other are working on them all the time. Anyways I am seriously hating SR20s, and that is probably why your friend wants to get rid of his. HAHAHA!!!

my vote neither. to me 20v are overrated (no offense guys just my opinion) and SR20's are PITA if you haven't caught that yet.

[wizzurp]

I basically daily my sr 86 and it doesn't give me any shit. It's quicker than most stuff on the road, has excellent torque, and if you want to slide it's ready when you are, just drop a gear or two. As much as people make it sound like a shitty engine it isn't bad at all, I personally think its fairly easy to tinker with compared to other stuff I've had to deal with.

[86boy]

it's not the worst engine in the world, just seems to have a few downfalls due to the oem parts being a common failure that are somewhat important like rod bearings #3 and the oil pump issue. I have a new oil pump sitting on my shelf, just a pain to get to while it's in the 240. I'm planning on doing some maintenance on the ol' sr20 and see how it stands up after that.

[wizzurp]

Seems like the most common mistake is installing a dented oil pan. Also seems like those who have baffled pans tend to have their engines last longer.

[86boy]

interesting. I'll have to look into that when I go to rebuild it.

[mooreofit]

if your pan is dented might want to check your pickup tube clearance might be why your burning up pumps and tossing rod bearings

[wizzurp]

Exactly, they generally ship with a dented pan and people just assume its ok. The pickup on an sr is pretty picky/important. It's next to just buy a new one rather than beating the old one out.