engine advice when it comes to torque ratings.

[ga_goosh]

iv always done the 22ft/lb then 90 deg then 90 deg as the fsm says. it also says to mark the front of the bolt twards the front of the motor with paint but to each his own. if it works then it works lol the fsm is in my sig by the way if any one needs it

[hotdoghogie]

I was told to do the 90+90 trick on my TRD MLS HG. I went with ARP's tq. spec instead. Torquing is for the bolts, doing it evenly is for the engine.

[BlackStar]

lot of good info here. I have another question to add on. Since I messed up the torque on the head, I want to drop the pan and check the torque on the rotating assembly. Since it seems I only have done the first torque step, should i just go ahead an continue torquing up to spec. I.E, if you where in my shoes, what would you do?

[ga_goosh]

If you dont trust your torque wrench then i would suggest getting yours calibrated or get a new one and retorque all your bolts. your spending the money on the rebuild you might as well put it together correctly and know its right.

[BlackStar]

If you dont trust your torque wrench then i would suggest getting yours calibrated or get a new one and retorque all your bolts. your spending the money on the rebuild you might as well put it together correctly and know its right.

so loosen it all up(or to at least finger tight and start again? makes sense, hopefully I can leave the rotating assembly in the car since I'm not taking anything out

[86boy]

I couldn't remember if I torqued my rod caps down... so I loosened them up and re-tightened them via FSM. Doesn't hurt to double check. Granted this hasn't been responded to since July 24th... soooo I'm hoping you have it back togehter and running by now lol. If not just re-do the torquing so you know 100% it's correct.

[dr.occa]

If using ARP fasteners use 3 passes:
1st pass 22fl/lbs
2nd pass 44ft/lbs
3rd pass 60ft/lbs

If using new toyota factory bolts (I believe they're torque-to-yield type a.k.a. tty), then:
1st pass 22ft/lbs
2nd pass 90° (=.25 turn)
3rd pass 90°

[McKenney]

if you use a torque wrench when doing the 22, 90 deg, 90 deg, it's the same as doing 22, 44, 60... I noticed last time I swapped a head. It was Toyota's way of making sure their mechanics torqued shit right.

A lot of manufacturers had issues with the mechanics/builders skipping to the final torque setting to try and save some time. This led to a lot of warranty work. <this is from a former engine builder from Chrysler with 20+ years building new engines.

[dr.occa]

if you use a torque wrench when doing the 22, 90 deg, 90 deg, it's the same as doing 22, 44, 60... I noticed last time I swapped a head. It was Toyota's way of making sure their mechanics torqued shit right.

A lot of manufacturers had issues with the mechanics/builders skipping to the final torque setting to try and save some time. This led to a lot of warranty work. <this is from a former engine builder from Chrysler with 20+ years building new engines.

^+$1,000,000...and how ever much money was wasted due to laziness on the part of dealer paid mechanics.

I've always been of the opinion that dealerships should hire top notch, veteran mechanics who overly cared about each car that came across their operating table. New, untested mechs should ply their skills and gain experience at the non dealership garages. But, that's how it goes. Great mechs ARE NOT a dime a dozen.

[86boy]

if you use a torque wrench when doing the 22, 90 deg, 90 deg, it's the same as doing 22, 44, 60... I noticed last time I swapped a head. It was Toyota's way of making sure their mechanics torqued shit right.

A lot of manufacturers had issues with the mechanics/builders skipping to the final torque setting to try and save some time. This led to a lot of warranty work. <this is from a former engine builder from Chrysler with 20+ years building new engines.

^+$1,000,000...and how ever much money was wasted due to laziness on the part of dealer paid mechanics.

I've always been of the opinion that dealerships should hire top notch, veteran mechanics who overly cared about each car that came across their operating table. New, untested mechs should ply their skills and gain experience at the non dealership garages. But, that's how it goes. Great mechs ARE NOT a dime a dozen.

I couldn't agree more with both of these statements.... This is why my cars always get serviced at my garage. Never know who will end up working on your car. Should be able to select from a screening of the mechanics at the shop of who you want to work on your car. in my opinion. In a sense like a tattoo parlor... generally before someone gets their shit peremently marked a sensible person wants to see some of their work before proceding. why not be able to do that with mechanics? I think if a shop did that... it would proabably help their sales and shit. lol but also put in the bad stuff too. People like honesty so if it screws up it lets the customer know that if it is something they screwed up they will own up to it.

[GamblerZ]

In most upscale shops in Europe and Asia, and even here in the U.S., if you do not have the accreditation of Master Mechanic then your work is always being checked and re-checked.

[86boy]

haha no out here in Nebraska. Who ever gets the car to work on is theirs til its done... unless they are gone for some reason. Then out the door. no one double checks stuff at shops here. even people that have little mechanic work.... it just get shoved out the door. lol