think i have a bad tranny

[dr.occa]

Check that your clutch fork is properly seated on the ball mount or did someone already suggest that?

[drift]

Yeah, ive double checked it already.

[drift]

Ok guys, heres and update on whats goin on so far. Car runs really good. But still having issues with some of the same stuff(clutch, brake, knckong when in gear, but no longer erratic timing marks. What i did do was i reset all the timing. Took belt off and remark all the timing. It is not all over the place but is now a constante climb. When i put the gun to it. You can see the mark move from the right all the way to the left. Does a full circle and you see it again but for a split second. Itll stay on on mark then does it again. one thing though is the car doesnt feel sluggish anymore.

[McKenney]

How is the pilot bearing?

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[drift]

I dont fly so i wont know anything bout a pilot bearing :D j/k.
It was good and moving freely and smoothly before i dropped the motor in. Dont hear any weird noises. Now my release bearing is old but it feels like the new one that came with my clutch(dont know why they gave me a mr2 re lease bearing even though i specify that its for a ae86 toyota corolla).

Knocking noise: Im thinking its my headers thats knocking on the bottom of my car since i found a loose bolt but i didnt get to test drive and find out if it is or not.

[mbehrens]

When you check your timing you are killing the electronic advance right.? Its sounds like your not . If you don't timing will be off . And you r clutch I don't think its your pilot beating thats in the flywheel to keep the input shaft from moving around. And if it was it be making noise . But not affect shifting . Throw out beating rarely causes shifting issues unless binded up. its your slave, faulty presure plate, bad master cylinder , and most reverse gears on old cars grind going into them due to its sliding an idler gear inbetween two spur gears and thats ehy it wines is cause of it being a spur gear . But it really sounds like the clutch master is bad . Does the peddle feel smith as you press it our does it feel spongy if it still does after you alway bleed it thats not air but the fluid passing back through the rubber seals intenaly on three cylinder.

[dr.occa]

^I believe Mark is on to something. +1

[drift]

if by killing the timing advance you mean have it in diagnosis mode then yes i have tried that and i have done it out of diagnosis mode and still getting the same thing. im thinking it has something to do with the spark plugs or dizzy now. im not that worried bout it cause its running better than it has since putting it back together.

now on the knocking. this is what i found. i started the car up today and herd a squeeling noise and would hear it every now and then. i turned the engine off thinking it cant be my belts cause they were all tight. checked them and the alternator belt was loose. come to find out the bolts and nuts holing the alternator bracket in place had loosin up. tighten them all up and was checking all the nut and bolt and found the bracket that bolts the tranny up to the engine block was loose on the driver side. i had my brother-in-law help me and he was the one that was suppose to tighten up all the bolt back together. it was my fault though cause i should've double checked it. drove it around the block and didnt feel or hear a kncok anymore.

now onto the clutch. i know its not the slave cylinder cause thats the second new one i put in. yes it could be the clutch master cylinder but then it dont feel spongy at all. it is actully really smooth and since i adjusted the peddle height its been shifting smooth and no longer nard to put into gear. im thinking ill look more into it this weekend when i change out the brake master cylinder. just wandering but could a twisted or kinked line do that to the clutch also.

ill post up what ever i find also

thanks for all the help guys. credit goes to all 86garage members. i love this site man

[mbehrens]

Yes it could be a kicked or twisted line but if it is the line then it would be a collaosed line where the inside of the rubber hose brakes up and clogs the line ... Take the rubber hose off and try to look through it if tti our csnt see through it or barly see light then it is collapsed. Sometimes you can pitch the hosr and feel it be squeshy inside .... And dye the vehicals age and if its origanal line that could be very possible even likleky ...

[mbehrens]

Also for timimg you sure you dontt have a vacuum issue and or the inj are spraying, right and not driping ...just, sayimg lol....

[drift]

I was thinking it might be my line but i double checked it when i put the other slave cylinder on and it wasnt kink or twisted at all. Imma go with the bad master cylinder and maybe change out the line with ss braided line. Now on the idle. I was thinking of vacuum also since im not running tvis and egr no more so i checked everything and all the right ones was hooked up or pluged up and that was before the car started running better. I talked to a coworker of mine and he said it probably is your spark plug wires, broken cap, or not getting a good spark in the cap. He said it should be right on since its only reading from the number 1 wire and only reading when there is a spark going across the wire. So imma check that out tomorrow and see. It makes since and thats what ive been thinking of also.

[86boy]

you claimed your car would do the same thing when you had the diagnostics hooked up and when it was not hooked up. Did you check your Check Engine Light to see if it was flashing to verify that you are for sure in the diagnostics mode. It's a habit for me now, because sometimes it does not make a good enough connection. Or also in my case there was wiring issues, AND blown caps in the ECU I was trying. At the time I wasn't getting a CEL light at all unless I grounded out the wire to the CEL. I replaced the ECU, and would get a CEL light, but no codes what-so-ever. Then fixed the wiring, and BAM everything was operational again. Just some other thoughts that could be part of the issue.

[drift]

yes i know about the the engine light need to be on while in diagnosis mode. like i said in an older post. im not getting any codes or anything. it just gets the regular blink...blink...blink...blink and so on and so on. im gonna change the cap and out and maybe try taking the belt back off and re-zero the marks on cam and crank.

now on the clutch. i think its my pressure plate that not giving me a good engagement. i looked in my manual book and they said something about checking the teeth on the pressure plate to make sure they are align right. causes could be noisy clutch to slipping clutch or not good engagement. didn't want to tear into the tranny but guess ill have to now.

[drift]

made alot of progress today. found out the issue on the timing and replaced a few things that needed to be replaced.

the timing issue was on the faulty timing gun. it was more of a accidental fix than a i found the problem. the connector that connects to the #1 plug wire was not getting a good reading. it slide down to the cap and thats when i noticec that like coming on by itslef instead of me having to push the button. as soon as i grabed it the light went out and i had to play with it for a while to get the light back on. looked at timing and it was close to -5 degrees. adjust it to 0-1 degrees and the car never felt so dahm good.

now i just need to pull the tranny and check the pressure plate out but itll have to wait till next weekend. getting tired of ficking around with it. plus i can take it to a shop to work on it.

i know i said this a lot but thanks to all of you for all your patience, time, and knowledge. i just feel like i cant thank you guys enough.