A new build......seriously the stuff of legend

[c4ptiv3]

Got the bottom end back and started slowly tinkering with it. I went ahead and checked the clearances of the oil pan, bought a new 4A oil pick up and installed the pan and pick up last weekend. Which in turn meant I installed the new SQ Engineering ported oil pump and the rear main seal. I had installed the engine mounts as well and noticed they were already filthy from the little time that it had ran, so I have decided to pull them off to get sand blasted and paint them black.

The heat ended up overwhelming me and I had to take it inside. This weekend I hope to put the head on and some of the ITB stuff. I will then be stuck until I figure out the cams scenario.

I'll update as I can.

[c4ptiv3]

Cams got delayed by a few weeks because the seller forgot to ship them, they should be here tomorrow and I will hopefully finish the engine assembly next weekend.

[dr.occa]

Keep the updates coming

[c4ptiv3]

Got the cams in and they are pretty damn cool. They were created for a racing series that did not allow adjustable cam gears so the dowel is moveable to adjust timing, this will be very handy since with the 7AGE the timing is off by 1.5 teeth with my belt. This means I can get it closer to TDC without having to adjust my gears so much.





I did a test fit and checked the clearances, I'm pretty far OOS spec per the cam card. What is odd is that it does not have a range but wants .010" for intake and .012" for exhaust. So if any of you have any shims laying about I'm looking for the following.

.103"
.109" x2
.105" x2
.098" x2
.115"
.100" x2
.104"
.106"




I'm dead in the water until I can get some shims, but things should start trucking along once I can get the head together. Stay tuned my friends.

[dr.occa]

http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/valve ... -25mm.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[c4ptiv3]

Kickass! Thanks Doc. Now are those the correct size in diameter?

[dr.occa]

Kickass! Thanks Doc. Now are those the correct size in diameter?

Yes, those are the correct diameter size. If in doubt you can always take verniers to yours to confirm.

[c4ptiv3]

Sorry for the delayed updates, I would have had more updates a few weeks ago but I got ran down on my Ruckus and it is hard to do anything, let alone car work.

I did play some musical buckets today and got the intake clearances all within spec but I'm 4 shims shy of being able to complete it on the exhaust side. I have a few more buckets to try but I f-bombed up trying to do this stuff today with my ribs being jacked up and now I'm paying for it. I'll try again in a few days.

[dr.occa]

good on you for dedication

here's to a speedy recovery for you.

[c4ptiv3]

Okay, finally picked up some shims using Dr. Occa's recommendations from earlier in this thread and I was finally able to put the head on today. I then ran into a speed bump when I realized I needed a deep socket to get the head bolt nuts tightened all the way down. I will have to go pick up one from Sears later today.

I then did some test fitting on the ITB adapter from T3 and noticed that the TVIS OEM intake manifold studs are way way too long. I'm going to have to figure out what the part number is or dimensions/thread pitch of the high comps to replace them. Hpoefully I can get some more shit done later this weekend or next.





Should have more updates coming soon.

[dr.occa]

I believe 8mm x 1.25 bolts should be the size - correct me if I'm wrong. I was trying to remember off the top of my head. Sorry - I'm being lazy.

[c4ptiv3]

Haha, no worries Doc., Brad hooked me up with the proper size.

I know it's been awhile since my last update but things have been hectic. Alas, I have made a good deal of progress the last few weeks.

I had some issues with the custom cam gears I had ordered, I kept getting piston/valve contact when getting close to TDC on the intake cam. I started looking around and comparing the cam to my OEM cam and my TRD cam and it appeared to me that the spot the cam grinder notated as "TDC" was in fact off by one mark. I moved the pin over and everything seems to be correct. You can see the yellow paint where they marked TDC.





I had the machine shop mark TDC on the crank gear so I could ensure it was correct with the 4AGE timing cover, and it appears to me that the mark could be off by about 2 degrees. Something to consider for anyone building a 7A in the future. It could also just be from all the block/head milling, etc.



The motor is now completely assembled. I need to pull the fuel rail and get it cleaned up as well as the water pipe, otherwise it is looking very nice this go around.







Next up is degree'ing the cams if Mr. Dixon can get down in a timely manner, dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump and to clean up the sending unit, re-wiring a few key items to clean up how the injector wiring looks as well as the relocation of the TPS due to the ITB setup.

I'm also looking at getting some 1st gen turbo DSM 450cc injectors for a nice upgrade on a budget, I'd also take some supra injectors but they seem hard to locate. That's all I have for today, stay tuned my friends.

[c4ptiv3]

Going to drop the tank Friday, terrified that something is going to be rusted through or I'm going to break something after reading a ton of posts on the interwebs, Hopefully things go smooth.

[c4ptiv3]

Went into dropping the tank expecting the worse, especially after reading all the threads about it on the internet. I thought for sure everything would be seized up, rusted, hard to remove and I'd break fuel lines, etc. Instead the process went super smooth and we had the tank out fully in about an hour.

We jacked up the rear, removed the bumper, gas tank cover and then used an old transmission jack to support the tank. We didn't even have to drain it. Once it was pulled I was pleasently suprised with how the shape the lines were in and the very small amount of surface rust that was on the pump housing and sending unit. I then handed the parts off to my friend that helped so he could sandblast them, now I just have to figure out what I can paint/coat them with before I put them back into the tank. I'm also going to clean up the sending unit so it works correctly again. The only issue, and a very small one I might add, was that one screw on the sending unit had been stripped. We were able to get it out but I'll be looking for some replacements along with replacing all the hose that had hardened on the lines.

Depending on how the next few days go, temp wise and real world problems wise I will try to get the clutch master cylinder swapped out and get some measurements for the water line situation.










More to come, stay tuned!

[c4ptiv3]

Got the new clutch master cylinder installed yesterday and that thing was a bitch. I refused to remove the brake booster to get that bolt behind it so it took me several hours of working with it to finally get the old one out and the new one in. I also removed the crappy braided line that connects to the slave cylinder, I'm going to take it to Stuart hose and get a line that has a thread end that will spin freely, because I'm tired of it leaking at the slave unit.

I ordered some contact cleaner for the sending unit as well as some rust prevention coating for the fuel filter housing and the sending unit, hopefully they will be here this week so I can get the tank back in this weekend. I still have to locate some nice fuel hose, I don't like using Autozone or Oreilly's, that shit seems to deteriorate almost 3 months after installation and I don't want to have to drop the tank again in my lifetime. If anyone has some solutions please let me know.

I did some measuring of the water pipes/heater core pipes and I'm going to try and order some compression fittings on those pipes and install some braided lines to clean up the look a bit, I'm not sure if they have my exact measurements so I'll just have to check with them.

Contemplating re-creating my harness since I have to relocate the TPS connector and IAT mounting area. Still on the fence about this, I may save that for next winter. I also need to find a shop that can fab me up a bracket for the IAT sensor. Going to have to do some digging there. That's all I have for now, stay tuned for more updates.