This is not an exhaustive grocery list but I'll do my best to mention the essentials.
1. Carb(s): dual side-draughts, dual down-draughts, single down draught 4 barrel/ 2 barrel, carb per cylinder (e.g. motorcycle carburetor(s))
2. Intake Manifold for mounting your carb(s) of choice to the 4AGE head
3. HVLP (high-volume low-pressure) Electric Fuel Pump:
Webers - no more than 4 lbs of delivery
Mikuni's no more than 3.5 lbs of delivery
recommendations: carter 4070 or holley's red low pressure electric fuel pump
I highly advise against a mechanical fuel pump
4. Adjustable Low Pressure FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and FP Gauge (liquid filled, low increment recommended)
---September 19, 2010---
When using the low pressure, non-bypass fpr from holley mount your gauge in one of the 3/8npt OUT ports (a 3/8" to 1/8" npt adapter can be used just for starters when "skinning that cat") for more consistent pressure reading.
---March 30, 2011--- I don't recommend this at all btw.
**For those wanting to run the GTS factory fuel pump, the Aeromotive 13301 return fuel pressure regulator would be ideal. It's adjustable from 3-65psi. Again, this is a RETURN STYLE fuel pressure regulator. (10/4/2012) - I cannot confirm that this will be a working and trouble free route but the parts for attempting this method is here mentioned for individual consideration.
---January 5, 2024---I must mention that several colleagues over the years have tried the afore mentioned method and have chased nothing but intermittent issues from day one. Doing away with the EFI fuel pump all together and going with a more appropriately sized fuel pump and matching regulator resolved those intermittent issues.
---December 14, 2011---
Please note also that nothing smaller than 3/8"(= 6AN fittings) FUEL line should be used for fuel delivery.
---February 29, 2012---
I have to re-iterate: go no smaller than 3/8" fuel line all the way from the tank -> fuel pump -> fpr -> carbs.
If you're going with a bypass fpr type maintain a 3/8" line for delivery and return. NO SMALLER.
**Also, do not attempt to use the Carter (P)4070 electric fuel pump with a bypass type regulator as the pump itself is already internally bypassed to maintain a no-higher-than 6-7psi amount of pressure in open flow. The carters should be coupled with a deadhead/dead-head type fpr. The inverse is also true.
5. Throttle Linkage
6. Appropriate means of plugging the fuel injector ports (e.g. freeze plugs, injector port plugs from Techno Toy Tuning - i recommend using the fuel injector port on no.4 for your vacuum assisted brake booster if your manifold doesn't have an available vacuum port. you can also tap it and outfit it w/ a barbed brass fitting. you decide
7. Corrective Fuel & Air Jets or a vendor that you can easily obtain them from
IGNITION OPTIONS FOR CARBED 4AGE ENTHUSIASTS
1. Use the stock blue top 4AGE distributor locked out at the timing of your choosing.
2. Use the stock blue top 4AGE distributor w/ the MSD 6A/L w/ MSD p/n 8980/8981 timing curve "computer" - to use the stock tach you will need to use MSD's p/n 8920 tach/fuel adapter NOT the 8910EIS (fuel injected w/ 6AL) or 8910. the 8920 is for the magnetic pick-up leads that are used from the Blue Top Distributor. If using an aftermarket Tach then the 8920 is not necessary.
note* - The 8980 is a fixed timing curve. This means you would set your distributor timing at your intended idle timing. The 8980 will advance your timing and max out at 20 degrees full advance e.g. if your idle is set at 10 degrees just under 1k your full advance will be 30 at 3k.
note** - The 8981 is a "programmable" timing curve unit. It's still based on the same design of the 8980 BUT you get to dictate when timing advance starts and ends in your rpm range.
3. Use the 4K distributor from a Starlet. It will need to be adapted to mount up to the 4AGE head. You will also need the gear from a 4AGE distributor to replace the 4K's in order for it to spin off of the 4AGE exhaust cam.
4. IDS w/ Megasquirt and crank tooth wheel and sensor. Electromotive and other companies can provide you with good IDS setups.
MEGAJOLT LITE JR is yet another option which uses EDIS and your option of TPS or MAP. MEGAJOLT LITE JR does not allow for both simultaneously as of the posting of this thread. I've included this after taking a little bit of "heat" from an AEU86.ORG member about using the stock ECU for ignition which I personally advise against only because with the amount of work put into "rigging" it up you can easily go megajolt lite and have more programmable control. anyway, have at it. Hope this helps someone.
MSD PROGRAMMABLE 6AL II (p/n:6530) - This unit gives you the capabilities to program your timing curve via a laptop/desktop interface cable. It also has inputs that let you control external items via triggers or implement changes based on input from external sensors, etc. This is a more expensive option to the Megajolt Lite unit by Autosportlabs as I mentioned above.
ELECTROMOTIVE - XDI - Another well known performance ignition system but using a "60-minus-2 tooth crank trigger wheel" for higher ignition definition ("...offering spark accuracy of ¼ degree of crankshaft rotation") and on the pricey side. Still a great waste-spark choice with a programmable timing curve. Read about it here.
4AG factory distributor + MAP harness & ecu - If you can get a hold of these then it should be self explanatory.
update:---June 2, 2023---
Microsquirt ECU v3 - A compact version of Megasquirt but without as many bells and whistles AND is capable of managing just ignition (you can easily go EFI later if you so choose). Though similar to the Megajolt Lite, Jr mentioned earlier the Microsquirt gives your more options for programmable ignition: factory distributor, CAS, EDIS/Waste Spark...etc...read more on it here.
LINKAGE OPTIONS FOR DUAL SIDEDRAUGHTS & YOUR 4AGE
If you're having a difficult time with deciding on a throttle linkage setup i'd like to make a suggestion using visuals:
I'm using the following setup w/ the stock SR5/GTS w/ cruise control throttle cable - I then installed threaded spherical rod ends in the fuel rail mounting holes. - you may have to re-thread the mount holes depending on the spherical rod ends you source - linkage rod through the sph. rod ends - rod arm(s) or
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST:
shaft collars on each end to keep the linkage assembly in place You may need these: ...as well as these type of linkage rods: * image supplied by LYNX CORPORATION
Necessary components can be obtained from providers such as occamotif,
piercemanifolds.com, upgrade motoring and carbs unlimited - just to name a few.
* parts pictures are all borrowed from piercemanifolds.com unless noted otherwise
- added 3-19-2009
FCR jets are totally different from the dcoe/solex/delorto/mikuni phh side draught carbs.TOYCOOLROLLA - from Club4AG wrote:I don't have any ideas yet on jettings but I am not worried about it since we got lots of motorcycle mechs over here.
I am just choosing which to choose between the 2. =)
for your perusal rhett: Keihin FCR carbs
click on the jet lists link on the left navi pane to see the FCR jets.
here's a quick look at Mikuni 40/44PHH side draught jets & jet block: and weber DCOE jets: 1. Intake and discharge valve for accelerator circuit
2. Idle jet assembly
3. Main jet stack
4. Starter jet assembly
5. Accelerator pump jet
6. Idle jet
7. Air Correction jet
8. Emulsion tube
9. Main jet
10. Start jet (Cold start circuit)
(Weber DCOE info gratefully borrowed from "TerriAnn's TRIUMPH Web Pages"
For top notch carburetor servicing: Taka Sato at Kyushahouse
Regarding Motorcycle Carburetors - added 3-19-2009
mikuni sidedraught carbs are outfitted with chokes/inner venturis that range from 30mm to 41mm (30-36mm for the 40phh carbs and 34-41mm for 44phh models).
given the fact that the 40phh mikunis (found on toyotas from the factory) come with at most 30-32mm chokes stock while the 44phh miks show up with 32-34mm off the assembly line, unconventional carb candidates can be more easily considered.
so, for comparative purposes that should answer a good deal of concerns regarding bike carbs.
Runner Length Tuning - Intake Pulse Tuning - a.k.a. "further exercises in tuning pedantry" - 3-19-2009
Motorcycle throttlebodies and as well as the carbs are not as heavy or have as much girth as the sidedraughts so they're not all that cumbersome when at the end of the runners. so a support arm or brace isn't important BUT make certain the bike carbs are cupped via clamping hoses nearly surface to surface with the intake runners on the manifold.
There may not be enough room in the engine bay for say 14" length runner (that's from the opening of the stack to valve head) for a 1587cc with peak torque rpm at ~6000rpm. There's a means of calculating optimum runner length regarding pulse tuning. check out Wallace Racing's Runner/Torque Calculator(s).