New Motor

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:33 pm

which setup would produce more power and reliability?

*redtop (smallport) head/my 20v bottom end/ 20v itb's/standalone

*just plain old blacktop 20v

*or just keep the bluetop

i think the first just because it seems easier due to waterline/dist.

rage · Post by **rage** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:40 am

plain blacktop w/ standalone

Ricky86 · Post by **Ricky86** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 10:27 am

I would say full red top motor, my only reason is bc of parts availability. I wouldn't want a 20 valve just for that reason alone bc shit will eventually break lol!

Post by **nt66** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 1:54 pm

itbs and standalone on the 16v bluetop with the small port head

Nasser · Post by **Nasser** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:25 pm

yeah what will said. i am starting to lean over to the idea of building an n/a 16v myself.

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 7:37 pm

why bluetop/ redtop head?

inertia · Post by **inertia** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:08 pm

4ac is the only way to go

erickz300 · Post by **erickz300** » Tue Dec 30, 2008 11:14 pm

And a 32/36 weber standalone!

Post by **dr.occa** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 3:04 am

the blue top bottom end is recommended due to its lighter internals. every subsequent block afterwards houses a larger and obviously heavier rotating assembly yet still spun to a higher tolerance with the 20v crank being at the pinnacle of that improvement.

the 3 rib can also be spun to improve on what could be perceived as a weakness in its smaller mass or just replaced with forged components. the lighter assembly has its advantages.

personally, the latter blocks w/ "heavier" internals can also be built and with the added security of knowing it can take more of a beating that can be dished out at it i.e. forced induction via turbo, sc or nitrous oxide.

the biggest area to pay attention to is going to be the head. that's where gains will be best had. in regards to the 4AG: "it's all in your HEAD".

my85suprat · Post by **my85suprat** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:18 pm

in regards to heads; do the 4ac and 4ag share blocks at all?

NonStopTuning · Post by **NonStopTuning** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 1:32 pm

Ricky86 wrote: I wouldn't want a 20 valve just for that reason alone bc shit will eventually break lol!

My thoughts exactly!!!

I will also throw this one into the mix just for fun...

4AGZE with full NST pulley setup = 18psi

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:01 pm

gze is out of the question... sorry mike.

but i'm definitely not gonna do the 20v now.... i'm still figuring this out

Post by **CBR_TOY** » Tue Jan 06, 2009 8:51 pm

most likely will go the route will said... but might pretty it up a bit with some more suspension and just run NST pulley's

hvguy · Post by **hvguy** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 6:36 pm

my original dream swap was a 20v, but ive heard of too many people swapping it and being disappointed in its BHP

DjSpecter · Post by **DjSpecter** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 8:57 pm

I would say stick with the bluetop with ITB's and standalone. cause the blacktop has alot more hassle to work with as in waterlines and such. And then the parts are kinda hard to track down and if you can get them there pretty expensive just cause its JDM. lol I reallly see no point in going black top other then for the small power diffrence. for the same amount of time and money you can

P&P the head
toda valvesprings or TRD will do
TODA valve guides
TODA retainers
Ebay Manifold
Mitsubishi Starion / Eclipse turbo
R/C injectors
standalone
HKS cams

And after all is said and done you can call it a day and show off what you yourself had built. I guess the reason I dont like engine swaps is cause I like top see how much power i can squeeze out of a engine before i go to a swap. But if you go blacktop then kudos for you. But i pearsonaly like to show off what i build.