A new build......seriously the stuff of legend

[c4ptiv3]

Got a few things done today before I hit a stopping point.

Here's a shot of the MRP 7AGE/4AGE crank sprocket. I got this installed today and ready to go.



Here's a picture of it installed and what I think is the TDC mark, it's the only one I could find on the sprocket so I'm guessing it is but I emailed MRP to make sure.



I installed the Intake cam and found all clearance to be dead within specs (Thanks HKS!!!). However, once I got the exhaust side in and started torqueing down the cam cap bolts I had one that would just spin and never get tight. I pulled it out and it looked like this . I'm going to try and
use a tap and die kit and hopefully I can fix the threads.




I also pulled off the water pump O ring but didn't have the new one in the garage so I didn't take any pictures of it. I hope to get some more updates in tomorrow if I can get a tap and die kit going.

[c4ptiv3]

Finally stopped raining enough to get some things accomplished this weekend.

I went and picked up a Heli-coil kit and got the cam cap bolt fixed. I was quite nervous but everything worked out really well.


Got the T3 TVIS delete installed, however, I forgot to use the new bolts I got from Toyota. I'll try to get some more shots once I get them installed.




Finally starting to look like a motor, I have to clean up the throttle body a bit before it goes on. Also need to clean up the upper oil pan a bit before it goes in.




All I could get done today, still waiting on injectors from Mr. Injector and the correct water pump O ring for the block then it will be ready to pull the old engine and place this one in. Let's hope for nice weather late in the week and over the weekend!

[joel26]

looks good and clean................................

[c4ptiv3]

Thanks man. After looking at it I've decided to go ahead and try to clean up every piece in the bay, which also includes painting the bay itself. Things are going to take a bit longer than anticipated but I know if I don't do it while the engine is out I'll hate myself.



Another beautiful day here in Texas, great weather for working on the ole 86. Here's your daily update for the week.


Took the waterpump off to see if It would still spin freely after the whole water line debacle. Doesn't seem to be broken in any way, win!



Decided to clean up the cam gear backplate since the rest of the engine looks so nice. Here's a shot sanded, pre-paint.



Here's post paint, that crinkle paint is looking really good on the parts so far.



Finally got some brass fittings so I could remove those ugly ass EGR plugs on the rear water line.



Did a test fit of the new intake setup, going to have to do some cuttings since it's a bit too long. Otherwise it looks great, really excited to get rid of the MAF setup.



2 hours f-bombing with this thing trying to remove it, really wish I had a pulley puller.



Got the alternator pulled off and ready to be cleaned up. It's definitely seen better days. Wish I could afford to buy a new one. (Also need to find someone with an impact to remove that pulley and replace it with my NST variant).



Wasn't really digging the 7AFE dipstick so I decided to do a comparison, for science of course. The diameter of the tube seems identical on both but the 4AGE is much shorter and much nicer looking in my opinion. Looks like I can get away with using it.




That's all I got for today, hope to have some more updates tomorrow.

[cdixon311]

I don't think that timing mark is going to be right, that's probably the stock timing mark, but you are going to use the new key. You can use that to set your block at tdc, but then I think you'll have to rotate the engine a little bit and flip that gear to use the new key. You can tell the old vs new key depending on where the notch is at. I'd have to look, but one is in between gears teeth and the other is on a gear tooth. Off top of my head I'm not sure if you need to rotate left or right on the crank to match up with cams at tdc, but I can look at all of this over the weekend if you need.

[cdixon311]

I'm using the 4age oi dipstick on mine too, works a lot better imo. Looks to be about the same lines when I checked it as well. I have an impact and compressor in my garage, if you still need help getting it pulled apart, I'll be home all weekend. Feel free to swing by cypress if you want.

[c4ptiv3]

Yeah, I contacted them about the timing mark, they said I had to line it up with the crank pulley and make my own mark. They said the Crank pulley will line up properly and so will the cams.

I might take you up on that offer, I'll message you on here if I decide to come that way.

I've also decided to do a custom wire tucked engine harness, I've posted in the electrical section if anyone wants to talk wiring.

[c4ptiv3]

New updates today! I spent most of the week pulling parts off, cleaning them and getting them painted/ready for install as things come into place. I didn't take pictures of this process since it was really boring and I wasn't at half chub as per usual.

Cleaned up the timing cover for the crank as best I could and painted it. Still doesn't look spectacular but since I can't buy a new one it'll have to work for now. Just need to pick up a white paint pen and finish it off.



I've decided to paint and clean up the bay while the engine is out, while taking off one of the water lines it freaking broke at the heater core, so now I need to source one of those. I'd prefer to use a brand new replacement so I don't have to worry about this happening again for 30+ years, anyone know of any other cars that I can use the heater core out of?





Got the waterpump cleaned up, painted and re-assembled. Doesn't look to shabby. Only issue is the top bolt that secures it to the block does not line up, I think it will be okay.





Put the cam gears on, really stands out now with the engine all cleaned up and painted. I need to get new bolts for the gears since they look like dook.



Pulled the harness out to start dissecting it to create a custom harness from scratch. I do not plan on cutting this one up, just using it for reference points since I'm not good at reading schematics.




Should be getting injectors back today or tomorrow, will post more updates once they arrive.

[cdixon311]

Yea the cams should be at tdc, but I don't think the crank pulley will be at tdc to match up with that stock mark. See, I used adjustable cams, so I set my crank at tdc, and then turned the cams a little bit so that the belts could line up right. You have the cheater gear, so you're doing it opposite by lining up the cam gears and rotating the crank. Remember the belt is a tooth and a half off, so the belt doesn't line up. If everything lined up at tdc, we wouldn't need to do any of this right?

I was just looking at mine, and you would need to rotate the crank clockwise after lining cams to tdc. Make sure the 1st piston is all the way at tdc, and not 180 off. crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the cams. I just pull 1st spark plug and put a screw driver in. When it's at the top, align everything, then slip on your new crank gear. When it needs a little play, let it rotate clockwise a tad.

I tried to get a good picture, but it's kinda hard. I think its a little bit further than what it looks like in the picture, but I had a funny angle. The cams are both set at their proper timing marks, as you can see the crank is moved clockwise a little bit.

[c4ptiv3]

With the kit I bought they said it will not need any adjusting other than ignition timing. I made sure of that before ordering, they even sent some special timing belt that they had specially made for this kit. But we will see how it turns out once I get everything on and going.


Re-manufactured injectors showed up today! Fresh paint and all that jazz, got the rail soaking so I can get them installed tomorrow.

[cdixon311]

So you're thinking you just set the crank and cams to tdc, then move the gear to the new tooth?

[c4ptiv3]

I put the crank on and everything this morning and moved it to 0 by the crank pulley and timing cover and my new mark is in between teeth just like yours. From what they said TDC is TDC on the crank and gears, I just need to fine tune it for more power just like any other engine with MS.

[cdixon311]

So are you saying the crank pulley is at tdc, or it's moved over a little bit like mine was?

[c4ptiv3]

I'm pretty sure it's TDC, I'll check with a Screwdriver once I'm sure I don't have to pull everything off again.

[c4ptiv3]

After talking to cdixon311 about the unforseen water pipe issue shown below I decided to find a way to clean up the look and make it look better.



I found some of these kick ass clamps at work and I think they will really hide the fact that there is a rubber hose down there.






I've also started taking measurements to create a resistor pack cover box, a custom fuse box and a new coil bracket with the waterjet/router at work. I'll try to post up some pictures once I get everything designed.

Been speaking with an AE86 owner that works at DIYautotune and he has informed me I can remove a large chunk of unnecessary wires/connectors from the engine harness. From what it looks like I'll have cut my connections in half, this will make the wire tuck much much easier. I'd give an exact number of wires I think I can delete but I need to make sure no other signals are sent through what I'm deleting before I post a write-up, stay tuned for some exciting stuff.

Tomorrow I plan on pulling the old block and cleaning up the bay for paint, I will post more then.